Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Have just put an alarm in the girl's stag and everything's going fine except for one thing, the driver's side door won't unlock when you press the unlock button. The rest of the doors and the boot all unlock fine. The driver's side door still unlocks with the key, from the outside as well.

I know with s13's and the like, there is no central locking mechanism in the driver's side door from factory. I also know the chances of a door coming with an unlock function, but without a lock function, are astronomically small, but thought I'd ask anyway.

So yeah, has anyone else had anything screwy happen to their driver's side lock function? Or is something broken on mine? I guess I should be looking in the door first? Seeing as the control box is obviously working, i mean.

Cheers guys :)

josh

hey mate,

where did you tap into the wiring for the alarm? for my alarm we went straight onto the back of the circuit board in the central locking controller which is on lhs up between the glovebox and the kick panel.

there is also a central locking controller on the drivers side but this won't activate the drivers door, only the passenger doors and trunk lock.

Hey mate, I'm back in town and have reception now. Did you pic up off those points I showed you? Is it just the unlock function that won't work, or the lock as well? Only thing I can think of if you did pick up off that circuit board is, did you make sure you used a negative trigger, I think from memory my alarm had the option of both positve and negative triggers and you have to make sure you use the right one.

hey guys,

yes, i used the passenger side control box and the doors are set to negative trigger by default. and yes, just the unlock function on the driver's door only that's not working :blink:

now the damn battery is flat as well... i've done something wrong...

Edited by pyro-ns
hey guys,

yes, i used the passenger side control box and the doors are set to negative trigger by default. and yes, just the unlock function on the driver's door only that's not working :blink:

now the damn battery is flat as well... i've done something wrong...

did you have a key with the lock/unlock buttons on it, if so does it still work? try and figure out if its just a problem of your wiring, or it the keyless entry control box has been damaged.

you mean a factory key with unlock buttons? did they come from factory with keyless entry?? all i've got is the regular key, no buttons no nothing :)

i'm starting to lean towards the control box being damaged. i've noticed a bit modified wiring/repairs in the car (moreso on the driver's side), so anything could have happened :P

false alarm on the flat battery. am guessing it's from having the door (dome light) on all day. the battery was already tired to begin with (still has jap writing on it, haha). gave it a charge yesterday afternoon, took it for a drive and it kicked over again this morning.

another thing too, what did you do about the indicator control on the un/lock control box? whenever i press a button now, the indicators flash wildly, because the un/lock box is telling it to flash at the same time as the alarm :blink: can i just snip a wire or 2 off the plug to the un/lock control box?

yeah i got a key with a lock and unlock button, and a normal one. they must not have found one when yours come over. and my indicators never flashed when locking and unlocking before the alarm. those 2 wires you joined onto the circuit board, if you just tap them to ground you should be able to lock and unlock all the doors that way, just to test the module is still working fine.

Edited by QWK32

talking to a alarm company awhile ago getting a quote and they said if it didn't have factory key-less entry, for stags they usually have to install a lock actuator in the drivers side. bout a week ago was talking to a installer bout the same topic and he said that there should be one in there from factory but if it didn't have key-less entry it wont be hooked up to the rest.

as Ive said this is just secondhand info not completely sure but worth a look.

goodluck

yeah i got a key with a lock and unlock button, and a normal one. they must not have found one when yours come over. and my indicators never flashed when locking and unlocking before the alarm. those 2 wires you joined onto the circuit board, if you just tap them to ground you should be able to lock and unlock all the doors that way, just to test the module is still working fine.

i tested it when i connected the wires, but i just heard the doors going off and thought, "Great! it's working!!!" <_< and no, no central locking key for me... bastards...

talking to a alarm company awhile ago getting a quote and they said if it didn't have factory key-less entry, for stags they usually have to install a lock actuator in the drivers side. bout a week ago was talking to a installer bout the same topic and he said that there should be one in there from factory but if it didn't have key-less entry it wont be hooked up to the rest.

as Ive said this is just secondhand info not completely sure but worth a look.

goodluck

shit :domokun: ah well, at least it gives me somewhere to look i guess. i didn't spot any burn marks on the central locking setup, so i'll probably check out the driver's door first then. will be a good opportunity to size up speaker replacements if we ever decide to do that as well. cheers for the info :D

my factory one locked me out in the rain, it would open but then the alarm would sound, and i have before in another activated the immobiliser, not much fun.

so i was standing in the rain trying to trick the car, very tempted to kick the shit out of my car, but knowing its a rust bucket i didnt wanna put my foot through the door.

never used the stupid factory alarm again.

Hahahaha lol. The factory alarm was only an option Josh. Mine didn't have it. But I'm sure the keyless entry was a standard feature on the S2's, that's what the white contol box on the passenger side does. First off I'd be checking the contol boxs operation by manually grounding those cables to see if all the doors lock, remeber all the doors have to be shut for it to work. Then if you still have no joy, your drivers side lock actuator might be disconnected or faulty. Wasn't your rear auto closer disconnected for some random reason.

Did you figure out the blinker crazyness? I know that once the alarm has gone off, once you disarm, the blinkers will flash a number of times to let you know what zone had gone off. Could this be what your seeing, I had it all the time when I didymium install as I kept testing each bit I did.

Hahahaha lol. The factory alarm was only an option Josh. Mine didn't have it. But I'm sure the keyless entry was a standard feature on the S2's, that's what the white contol box on the passenger side does. First off I'd be checking the contol boxs operation by manually grounding those cables to see if all the doors lock, remeber all the doors have to be shut for it to work. Then if you still have no joy, your drivers side lock actuator might be disconnected or faulty. Wasn't your rear auto closer disconnected for some random reason.

Did you figure out the blinker crazyness? I know that once the alarm has gone off, once you disarm, the blinkers will flash a number of times to let you know what zone had gone off. Could this be what your seeing, I had it all the time when I didymium install as I kept testing each bit I did.

nah, the rear auto door's fuse had popped. i just wasn't smart enough to check the simple things first :thumbsup:

the blinker craziness is definitely the control box + the alarm sending so many signals at once. on the girl's stag, the blinkers used to flash on lock and unlock, before we put the alarm in (i think it was twice for lock and once for unlock?). so that, plus the signals that the alarm is sending, is what's giving the Gabber night club effect :thumbsup:

i've got to fix the door on the colt properly first, then i'll get back to the stag. the colt got a new aerial and headunit on the weekend. still some tidying up to do on it first. there were obviously no DIN slots in the 80's... had to cut the surround out so that the headunit would fit :S

  • 2 years later...

Can anybody point me in the direction of where this central locking control box is located & what it looks like or take a photo of it please!?

On the passenger side behind the air vent. Remove the glove box to get to it. On the S2 it is a white box.

On the passenger side behind the air vent. Remove the glove box to get to it. On the S2 it is a white box.

Thanks QWK32, hopefully that's my issue and the S1 are the same!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...