Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Have just put an alarm in the girl's stag and everything's going fine except for one thing, the driver's side door won't unlock when you press the unlock button. The rest of the doors and the boot all unlock fine. The driver's side door still unlocks with the key, from the outside as well.

I know with s13's and the like, there is no central locking mechanism in the driver's side door from factory. I also know the chances of a door coming with an unlock function, but without a lock function, are astronomically small, but thought I'd ask anyway.

So yeah, has anyone else had anything screwy happen to their driver's side lock function? Or is something broken on mine? I guess I should be looking in the door first? Seeing as the control box is obviously working, i mean.

Cheers guys :)

josh

hey mate,

where did you tap into the wiring for the alarm? for my alarm we went straight onto the back of the circuit board in the central locking controller which is on lhs up between the glovebox and the kick panel.

there is also a central locking controller on the drivers side but this won't activate the drivers door, only the passenger doors and trunk lock.

Hey mate, I'm back in town and have reception now. Did you pic up off those points I showed you? Is it just the unlock function that won't work, or the lock as well? Only thing I can think of if you did pick up off that circuit board is, did you make sure you used a negative trigger, I think from memory my alarm had the option of both positve and negative triggers and you have to make sure you use the right one.

hey guys,

yes, i used the passenger side control box and the doors are set to negative trigger by default. and yes, just the unlock function on the driver's door only that's not working :blink:

now the damn battery is flat as well... i've done something wrong...

Edited by pyro-ns
hey guys,

yes, i used the passenger side control box and the doors are set to negative trigger by default. and yes, just the unlock function on the driver's door only that's not working :blink:

now the damn battery is flat as well... i've done something wrong...

did you have a key with the lock/unlock buttons on it, if so does it still work? try and figure out if its just a problem of your wiring, or it the keyless entry control box has been damaged.

you mean a factory key with unlock buttons? did they come from factory with keyless entry?? all i've got is the regular key, no buttons no nothing :)

i'm starting to lean towards the control box being damaged. i've noticed a bit modified wiring/repairs in the car (moreso on the driver's side), so anything could have happened :P

false alarm on the flat battery. am guessing it's from having the door (dome light) on all day. the battery was already tired to begin with (still has jap writing on it, haha). gave it a charge yesterday afternoon, took it for a drive and it kicked over again this morning.

another thing too, what did you do about the indicator control on the un/lock control box? whenever i press a button now, the indicators flash wildly, because the un/lock box is telling it to flash at the same time as the alarm :blink: can i just snip a wire or 2 off the plug to the un/lock control box?

yeah i got a key with a lock and unlock button, and a normal one. they must not have found one when yours come over. and my indicators never flashed when locking and unlocking before the alarm. those 2 wires you joined onto the circuit board, if you just tap them to ground you should be able to lock and unlock all the doors that way, just to test the module is still working fine.

Edited by QWK32

talking to a alarm company awhile ago getting a quote and they said if it didn't have factory key-less entry, for stags they usually have to install a lock actuator in the drivers side. bout a week ago was talking to a installer bout the same topic and he said that there should be one in there from factory but if it didn't have key-less entry it wont be hooked up to the rest.

as Ive said this is just secondhand info not completely sure but worth a look.

goodluck

yeah i got a key with a lock and unlock button, and a normal one. they must not have found one when yours come over. and my indicators never flashed when locking and unlocking before the alarm. those 2 wires you joined onto the circuit board, if you just tap them to ground you should be able to lock and unlock all the doors that way, just to test the module is still working fine.

i tested it when i connected the wires, but i just heard the doors going off and thought, "Great! it's working!!!" <_< and no, no central locking key for me... bastards...

talking to a alarm company awhile ago getting a quote and they said if it didn't have factory key-less entry, for stags they usually have to install a lock actuator in the drivers side. bout a week ago was talking to a installer bout the same topic and he said that there should be one in there from factory but if it didn't have key-less entry it wont be hooked up to the rest.

as Ive said this is just secondhand info not completely sure but worth a look.

goodluck

shit :domokun: ah well, at least it gives me somewhere to look i guess. i didn't spot any burn marks on the central locking setup, so i'll probably check out the driver's door first then. will be a good opportunity to size up speaker replacements if we ever decide to do that as well. cheers for the info :D

my factory one locked me out in the rain, it would open but then the alarm would sound, and i have before in another activated the immobiliser, not much fun.

so i was standing in the rain trying to trick the car, very tempted to kick the shit out of my car, but knowing its a rust bucket i didnt wanna put my foot through the door.

never used the stupid factory alarm again.

Hahahaha lol. The factory alarm was only an option Josh. Mine didn't have it. But I'm sure the keyless entry was a standard feature on the S2's, that's what the white contol box on the passenger side does. First off I'd be checking the contol boxs operation by manually grounding those cables to see if all the doors lock, remeber all the doors have to be shut for it to work. Then if you still have no joy, your drivers side lock actuator might be disconnected or faulty. Wasn't your rear auto closer disconnected for some random reason.

Did you figure out the blinker crazyness? I know that once the alarm has gone off, once you disarm, the blinkers will flash a number of times to let you know what zone had gone off. Could this be what your seeing, I had it all the time when I didymium install as I kept testing each bit I did.

Hahahaha lol. The factory alarm was only an option Josh. Mine didn't have it. But I'm sure the keyless entry was a standard feature on the S2's, that's what the white contol box on the passenger side does. First off I'd be checking the contol boxs operation by manually grounding those cables to see if all the doors lock, remeber all the doors have to be shut for it to work. Then if you still have no joy, your drivers side lock actuator might be disconnected or faulty. Wasn't your rear auto closer disconnected for some random reason.

Did you figure out the blinker crazyness? I know that once the alarm has gone off, once you disarm, the blinkers will flash a number of times to let you know what zone had gone off. Could this be what your seeing, I had it all the time when I didymium install as I kept testing each bit I did.

nah, the rear auto door's fuse had popped. i just wasn't smart enough to check the simple things first :thumbsup:

the blinker craziness is definitely the control box + the alarm sending so many signals at once. on the girl's stag, the blinkers used to flash on lock and unlock, before we put the alarm in (i think it was twice for lock and once for unlock?). so that, plus the signals that the alarm is sending, is what's giving the Gabber night club effect :thumbsup:

i've got to fix the door on the colt properly first, then i'll get back to the stag. the colt got a new aerial and headunit on the weekend. still some tidying up to do on it first. there were obviously no DIN slots in the 80's... had to cut the surround out so that the headunit would fit :S

  • 2 years later...

Can anybody point me in the direction of where this central locking control box is located & what it looks like or take a photo of it please!?

On the passenger side behind the air vent. Remove the glove box to get to it. On the S2 it is a white box.

On the passenger side behind the air vent. Remove the glove box to get to it. On the S2 it is a white box.

Thanks QWK32, hopefully that's my issue and the S1 are the same!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...