Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all!!

I just found out about an adaptor kit that changes a standard H box to sequential. I have emailed the manufacturer and am waiting for more info on costs, availability etc, but just wondering a) if anyone has heard about these things, and B) If I can get them at the right price, who'd be interested???

Thanks

I have heard of plenty of ‘off-the-shelf’ GTR sequential boxes – but not of a sequential conversion kit (not for the GTR that is). I’d say it would be quite expensive considering a new sequential box is upwards of $20k. You’d probably need at least a new gearkit/selectors, shifter mechanism, levers, etc. maybe even a new clutch, to modify a standard box if it is even possible. Then you’d probably want to add hydrualic actuation, paddle shift, etc so you can be just like Schumacher. But if you have the $$$...

Japanese company "Ikeya Formula" make them...

R32/R33 GTR kit retails for 150,000 Yen.

R34 GTR Kit wasn't released last time I heard

All GTS-t kits are 120,000 Yen.

It's just a dumb "Japanese innovation" guys... It sits on top of the standard box and it's ugly as all hell.

FDshitsunai.jpg

Not even the japanese buy it for their cars. I played with it at Tokyo Autosalon last year and it seemed to work okay, and a cool gadgety "novelty" item, but I sure as hell wouldn't put it in my car :D

Here's their website: http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/english/

The biggest reason why pple move to sequential boxes is to enable faster shifts.

Ikeya Formula sits on top of the standard box so the speed of your shift is still fundamentally restricted by the design and internals of ur own gearbox. It just changes the h pattern shift to a sequential pattern. You can argue that yanking on the Ikeya formula is slightly faster than shifting your H pattern gearstick, but eventually the weakness of your box will lead to its failure.

The Ikeya looks like puss, I have to say, but it is not the one I have been told about. I can get the Holingers for $18k, and HKS for even less. I've heard about an adaptor and is fitted to the standard shifter with out the ugly mods of the Ikeya product.

Still waiting for info to come to me, but it is selling really well in the USA to Supra owners for about $500 US + fitting.

Apparently there is a locating dial placed around the shifter that is twisted to choose either standard "H" pattern, sequential or Drag shifting. I am trying to wrap my mind around how it actually does this, but I willpost more info as soon as it comes to hand.

If it is an external bolt on adaptor, then you are missing the point of a sequential gearbox - your shifts may consist of a simple push/pull motion, but the adapter mechanism itself is still going through the motions of your H-pattern selector (probably through some complex little gear/linkage setup thingamajig). In essence you're just adding more slop/compliance/weakness into the system for the sake of lazier up/down shifting. Unless you're particularly challenged when it comes to shifting up and down a H-pattern, I don't see how a device like this could be of any real advantage past it’s “look at me im a racecar driver” novelty factor.

Yeah, I see your point, but if someone doesn't like the novelty factor, why do they buy a turbo car and put mag wheels, exhaust, BOVs etc on it??? Sure, there is the performance aspect, but don't these cars go fast enough??

I personally don't like the paddle shifters in the Ferrari's, but people buy them. Why do R34's have this feature on the steering wheel??

"BECAUSE PEOPLE WANT IT".

Everyone in real life I have mentioned it to has gone "cool, I'd buy one!!" Looks like most of those people like that novelty factor - otherwise they'd all be driving 3 speed auto corollas that get them from A to B, wouldn't they??

Information just to hand...

"The shifter is comprised of a set of guides.

What happens is you engage the device and it sets

down a guide 1st through 4th gear. Once you disengage

the mod you drive normally. It is not a true

sequential shifter in the forwards to back pattern.

For that you'll need a true (and expensive) sequential shifter

which is very costly. The adaptor works really well

and since installing it I've never missed a gear while

drag racing."

Waiting on more info & pics, that I will poston receipt

Iyaya...

I *had* that Ikeya Shifter on my site, but after Ikeya went through their 3rd generation make-over for it, I got a bit suspicious about them... good idea if Ikeya actually open up a branch in Australia to handle all the warranty work....

If the above conversation is still about the ikeya shifter then i can gurantee you will still experience missed shifts if u shift too quickly.

You are still limited by the fundamental construction of the standard box.

A mate of mine put it on for a while and realised that its not much more than a rice item.

Yeah, I see your point, but if someone doesn't like the novelty factor, why do they buy a turbo car and put mag wheels, exhaust, BOVs etc on it???  Sure, there is the performance aspect, but don't these cars go fast enough??

I personally don't like the paddle shifters in the Ferrari's, but people buy them.  Why do R34's have this feature on the steering wheel??  

"BECAUSE PEOPLE WANT IT".  

Everyone in real life I have mentioned it to has gone "cool, I'd buy one!!"  Looks like most of those people like that novelty factor - otherwise they'd all be driving 3 speed auto corollas that get them from A to B, wouldn't they??

Do u mean to say that you drive an R33 GTR V-SPEC (if you really are) just because of its novelty factor and that your mates think its a sick car?

Usuckpoo (interesting call) you are just not seeing this are you? If you actually read the text on my posts, you might understand what I am saying?? Seems like Ureallydosuckpoo as you are making a bit of a dick of yourself.

I'm not going to be the source of your cheap entertainment. I have more important things to do.

This post was a simple espression of interest, nothing more.

For the record, I own 4 companies and don't suffer fools well. So as a matter of fact, I DO have a real GTR V-Spec, so don't patronise me.

Now, for everyone else who's had something useful to say (that is every contributor to the post except Mr Poo), thank you for your honest points of view and thoughts. I do greatly appreciate your time experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...