Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the car when it had 68,000km Fresh from japan, now its 116,000kms Ive also done the 100,000km Service, On top of all these mods bellow,

Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling)

Tomei Dump pipes

Sard 720cc injectors

Sard intank fuel pump

PFC

Z32 AFMS

Air pods

Garret -5 turbos

Fuel Regulator

Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B

Oil - Air seperator catch Can

Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch

Os Giken 5 gear set

Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping

Oil cooler

Spitfire coils

3.5 inch exhaust

600hp rated Cat convertor

ALL INTERNALS ARE STOCK

Now long story short I got a tune done but little did the the tuner know there was a rip in one of the hoses this was before i got the piping done, So he set it to 15psi and the car was doing 316-320awkw, He pretty much tuned the car around the leak and everything looked fine, after i got the the pipiing done the car went quicker id say the boost went up automatically, must of been all that extra air going to through. Since then i have taken it to the tuner, his played alittle with the mixtures and so on but didnt touch the boost assuming its where he left it, he was pretty happy with everything, VERY little Knock. I checked the boost recently cause i found out how to and it peaked at around 21psi And now id say its 350awkw-360awkw.

Is this bad for the car? because its got stock internals how long roughly would will she last with all this beating last time i checked the compression was around 165psi on all cylinders. that was at the 100,000km mark.

Edited by GTRAAH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324144-is-this-bad-for-my-car/
Share on other sites

with a good tune there is no reason a street driven RB26 cant last a while @ 350rwkw

BUT

imho you should re dyno it and have the boost set where YOU are happy with and have the power level that YOU are happy and confident with.

edit: when this happened to me, we fixed the leak and my tuner didn't even finish 1 pass as he noticed the boost hit 26psi and was still climbing.

run was pulled and boost was re-set

make of that what you will :wacko:

with a good tune there is no reason a street driven RB26 cant last a while @ 350rwkw

BUT

imho you should re dyno it and have the boost set where YOU are happy with and have the power level that YOU are happy and confident with.

edit: when this happened to me, we fixed the leak and my tuner didn't even finish 1 pass as he noticed the boost hit 26psi and was still climbing.

run was pulled and boost was re-set

make of that what you will :wacko:

Im definately happy with 21psi but i feel that it might climb alittle higher but nothing past 22psi id say. But if i set it to 21psi i want to keep it around 3-4 yrs before i do my Internals Etc So i want it too last for that long

Edited by GTRAAH

well im saying 3-4 yrs time i want to rebuild the insides i only drive this car maybe 2-3 times a week, Sorry i forgot to tell you all its not an everyday car as in im not boosting all the time PLUS its my weekend car, Does that change things? i want it to last 3-4 yrs healthy before an internal rebuild, And i have just talked to the tuner and he stated that it wasnt pinging or knocking on that PSI setting

Edited by GTRAAH

its hard to say what is safe amount of power as ppl with stock engines have had to rebuid as well.. generally accepted with more boost on stock internal GTR, its good to keep it around 300kw mark to "prolong" its life.. its no guarantee but perhaps better odds than pumping out another 30-50kw and placing more stress.. also if your tune is good and u look after it well, no reason it wont last the distance, but sometimes luck of the draw

Thanks BWRGTR, Is there anyway to keep an Eye out on the wear and tear?

Used oil analysis is the only way I know of. Basically, every oil change you send off a sample of the oil to a lab and they send you a report. Its been discussed here before so search if you're interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...