Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

Was wondering what you guys were getting for your R32 GTR. Mine's near standard and in great condition, got a quote from just cars for $1920 and $600 excess which I thought was a little high. I'm street parking in my current place, but am also looking for accommodation with a carport or garage (shannon didn't want to insure me for this reason).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You're going to get mixed answers. Insurance is all dependent on where you live, your age and driving history. (And obviously the car you drive and what you paid for it).

To me that that price sounds somewhat reasonable, I doubt you'll get a better price anywhere else. From the sounds of it, you're probably 24-25 in a pretty cushy suburb? Just Car wanted $1, 700 from me with a much higher excess and I'm 22. However my car is only a GTS-T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5282796
Share on other sites

Hi folks,

Was wondering what you guys were getting for your R32 GTR. Mine's near standard and in great condition, got a quote from just cars for $1920 and $600 excess which I thought was a little high. I'm street parking in my current place, but am also looking for accommodation with a carport or garage (shannon didn't want to insure me for this reason).

To be honest that sounds like a very good price considering its on street parking

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5282820
Share on other sites

im down to $1138 (renewed in January) including the wanky maximum no claim bonus protection thing for a Series 2 R33 gts-t now at close to 260rwkw, Insured for probably the same price as a decent R32gtr, park it in the drive way, in the street, gf's street over the weekends, park it in glebe back streets ect... and it's all covered 100% as long as it has an australian standards immobiliser.... 23yo male, clean driving history except for one suspension. Why are so many people paying so much more? The skyline is with just cars, my other cars are with aami.... although at 19 and the line was stock standard the insurance was $3k....

And whats so bad about parking our lines on the street? most of them are worth less than a new Kia Rio

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5297255
Share on other sites

im down to $1138 (renewed in January) including the wanky maximum no claim bonus protection thing for a Series 2 R33 gts-t now at close to 260rwkw, Insured for probably the same price as a decent R32gtr, park it in the drive way, in the street, gf's street over the weekends, park it in glebe back streets ect... and it's all covered 100% as long as it has an australian standards immobiliser.... 23yo male, clean driving history except for one suspension. Why are so many people paying so much more? The skyline is with just cars, my other cars are with aami.... although at 19 and the line was stock standard the insurance was $3k....

And whats so bad about parking our lines on the street? most of them are worth less than a new Kia Rio

It's got nothing to do with being worth the same as a new Kia. It's got everything to do with the likely hood of the car being stolen. History tells insurance companies that skylines are a target for theives therefore premiums go up. Pretty simple.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5297303
Share on other sites

if you have decent insurance who cares, thats why we get insurance, that and accident damage. Unless you have spent hundreds of hours working on it yourself I don't see why people are so overly protective like not parking the car on their street.

Also these days car thefts are at an all time low compared to what they were even 5 years ago, insurance is mostly looking at risk of an accident now, but has anyone got lower prices for any skyline (turbo or not) under $1100 comprehensive? And are any of them under 25 and with just cars? I heard Shannons is cheaper but you have to be over 25 to get it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5297602
Share on other sites

Exactly the problem though "decent isnurance" .

Most insurance companies will put the value of a GTR way below replacement costs.

As an example a friend has a GTR that is completely rebuilt top to bottom, pretty much every screw and washer replaced. On top of that its a seriously quick car, and has had thousands upon thousands spent on it.

A few months back he was arguing with an insurance company as they wanted to drop the insured value down to $30k.

Yes i know cars depreciate and yes i know you can never get back what you paid, but when your insurance only covers a fraction of the cost of the car to you, then you're not going to park it on the street.

Personally as long as my car's replacement value is covered by insurance, and it is actually replaceable, i've got no problem leaving it anywhere.

As for under $1100, i reckon it'll be tough to get that in Syd.

I pay about that and my policy is a limited use vehicle, I'm over 30 and have a close to perfect driving record - that is 3 speading fines since i got my P's at 17, all under 10km/h over the posted limit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5297684
Share on other sites

true, the year before was $1600ish, year before was $2k and before that was $3k, i'm just curious to see if there is any logic behind it or if there are special preferences for having multiple cars with the same insurance ect...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5297789
Share on other sites

Tom,

its a pretty simple concept, its called risk. I thought you would know that owning your own business and owning a massa and ferrari?

the lower the risk, the better it is for an insurance company, which in turn, a lower risk helps with lower premiums to valued customers.

a skyline, high loss ratio for many insurers, to minimise risk, they have guidelines and rules. another way is not having that risk at all.

some insurers wont care where car is, however you'll get basic benefits if that. ie they chose repairer, repairs arent guarnteed. its market value, you'll have higher excesses to pay etc.

specialty insurers do care where car is and how being used. and if you meet their criteria, its a top policy.

Anyhoo,

for car lovers like ourselves, wouldnt you want to look after your fincial interest? your pride and joy?

my mazda isnt worth much, but f**k me I look after it, drive it as a 3rd car, its locked in the garage, i live in a nice safe suburb but still dont want to leave it out.

I have a bluebird for daily driving, its a car Im not worried about, so I have less cover on it

mazda = good car, good policy, low risk

bluebird = daily, dont care, TPO cover

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324153-insurance/#findComment-5299269
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...