Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well not exactly,

However, I've recently bought an R33 GTR, the thing is in brilliant condition however I noticed that the front torque gauge would register a split as soon as I moved, no matter how slow I was taking off.

Didn't know why for some time, then realised that the tyre brands front to rear were different. I did a little measurement and found there to be a small difference in overall diameter from front to back.

Now the rears actually measured smaller than the fronts by virtue of their makes so in effect, the computer is seeing that the rears are slipping as they are having to turn a little faster to travel the same distance. So I'm wondering if anyone here knows if the result would be the same if I put the fronts to the rear and vice-versa which would then have the rears turning slightly slower than the fronts.

Would this still produce the same result of torque split? Does it work in this situation where the fronts and turning faster than the rear???

I'd love to know before actually changing them over. Ta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324277-r33-gtrs-have-too-much-torque/
Share on other sites

So I'm wondering if anyone here knows if the result would be the same if I put the fronts to the rear and vice-versa which would then have the rears turning slightly slower than the fronts.
No, the ATTESSA will behave itself. (and you could have found the answer in any number of threads which deal with this phenomenon)
No, the ATTESSA will behave itself. (and you could have found the answer in any number of threads which deal with this phenomenon)

Well actually no blink_elk, this specific idea has not been addressed, everyone discusses how a difference in general will affect the system, however no one discusses the difference between which way it occurs... ie. front rotating faster or front rotating slower.

But thanks for your response and if you're right, that's very interesting to me.

lol . if i was you i wouldnt be making a piont of it.

everyone always talks about how putting the spare on the back f**ks it up and putting the spare on the front is fine(spare generally being a small space saver)

go read up on attesa and you could have figured it out all by yourself ....

Your guess is correct and 33 & 34 GTR's do pre-load the system. No matter how slow you take off the torque gauge will register a little as soon as you start moving until you're rolling at least 20 km/h (from my experience). Then because your rears are smaller, the computer "thinks" that your rears are spinning and thus will transfer torque to the fronts to try to compensate. If the diameters are out enough will do it all the time - that is what is bad for the transfer case. It will try and engage the 4wd but due to the different diameters will force slippage in the transfer case. Over time this will burn it out - they are VERY expensive to fix so this is a bad idea.

If you have to drive it to the tyre shop, swap the larger tyres to the rear so the rears are spinning slower than fronts. This is a temporary fix but get them sorted out quick.

Cheers guys, I'm taking it that it doesn't happen the other way around (ie. rears moving slower) as some have suggested.

I've put the same brand on the front and it's right, little bit in first at take off and does nothing from then on until it's howling...

Incredibly sensitive system, as the difference between the two was less than 5mm!! And the effect was immense. Fantastic car. Bit like a fussy child who doesn't like wearing different coloured socks.....

Thanks again.

yeah i the allowance before slip is 5 % i think , or might be 2% .

i thought nissan could at least privode a spare the right diameter to not cause this but no .

and also under full power you will see up to 30% to the front even if the rears not spinning

also it will go up to bout 30% under hard braking (like emergency stop with abs ) as it hinders wheel lock up

i dont know if youll A ever get it to do this or B if it shows on the gauge

  • 3 weeks later...
IT WILL NOT MOVE UNTILL THE REAR TIRES BREAK TRACTION

Incorrect.

Strong acceleration will move some load to the front wheels, just not a lot.

ATTESSA will work on corners before you lose traction.

You don't need to be too worried about the front torque gauge not moving all the time, you'll notice the difference mostly on corners / hard acceleration or loss of traction.

Incorrect.

Strong acceleration will move some load to the front wheels, just not a lot.

ATTESSA will work on corners before you lose traction.

You don't need to be too worried about the front torque gauge not moving all the time, you'll notice the difference mostly on corners / hard acceleration or loss of traction.

Still not happy with the fact that my auto GTS25t feels like it's got faster pickup though...

Doing a service tomorrow and will look at the air filter, spark plugs and AAC valve.

Incorrect.

Strong acceleration will move some load to the front wheels, just not a lot.

ATTESSA will work on corners before you lose traction.

You don't need to be too worried about the front torque gauge not moving all the time, you'll notice the difference mostly on corners / hard acceleration or loss of traction.

Correct. In addition to this, ATTESSA also factors in the speed that you're driving at. You'll notice that cruising at 60 km/h there is some torque going to the front wheels, and you'll notice there's even more when you're cruising at 100 km/h on a freeway.

Edited by ras1983

No mate, ATTESSA was upgraded on the R33 and R34 models and the fronts are much more active than on the R32's.

Have a look at the Autospeed road test, Julian noted this with the R33 that he used for the road test.

I have been in and have driven several R33's and a R34, and they have all displayed this same trait.

  • 2 weeks later...

The system should be engaging around corners, when accelerating out of them. But when accelerating out of a corner, keep your eyes on the road :(

The passenger can watch the gauge for you...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...