Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I think it might be time to sell the line and go for a better project and the 1st thing that comes to mind is a 180 with a rb26 for the main reason of it shouldn’t be that expensive..

Pick up an old 180 ca18 for around 7-8k?

A 32 gtr half cut should be around the 6k?

1st question is can I import a slightly modded 180?

Like I want a full cage, nice tight locked diff and maybe some after market suspension and a few gauges even?

2nd question is can I use a rb26 gearbox on a rwd car? Or do I need a box off a rb25? Or if any1 else has any ideas id love to hear them

3rd question is what other parts would I need?

fuel pump? Im sure theres heaps more

And last question is what sorta brake upgrade could I go for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32440-rb26-in-a-180-need-answers/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey,

you can get a 180CA18DET for cheap around australia ,

RB26DETT you can get one out of a 33GTR with the box etc etc.

im not to sure about the 25tgearbox you will need more information on that.

you will need to get the car engineerd for dropping the a rb26dett inside .

also you will need r33 gtr brakes and some goot suspension and good rubber. the car will loose lots of traction dont forget. maybe itll requite 255's or some wider rear gaurds.

its alli can think of.

oh man - such a sweeeeet project!!  

 

i wanna drop a 26 into a ceffy.

Buy a Ceffy with a 26 pre-installed!

These sorts of conversions make me laugh.

It seems the legendary 26 ends up landing in everything... Supras, S13's, Z32's.

I think it needs to go into a Micra!

There's some guys here with 26's in r31/r32/r33's. I hope them chime in.

T.

Out of all the engines you could drop into a 180sx, the RB26 conversion would be the MOST expensive. Stick with the SR20 or even the underrated CA18 – the money you’d save could power up either of those engines quite nicely. I’d also say that the RB26DETT is significantly heavier than any nissan four, and that having one sitting in the engine bay of your 180sx would send the weight distribution down the toilet somewhat.

unless u want a 10sec Drag car, else it's meaningless to drop a rb26 into a 180, which fxxk the balance up. For the $$ u spend, u could get a sr20 180 with HKS/tomei 2.2kit and a

HKS GT-RS turbo and makes it a very good all round 11 sec car.

u can't import a modded car now, but a lot of importer are happy to strip the car to standard and put every back after compliance. u have to pay for labour of course.

u might need a gts-t gearbox if u drop the RB26 in as GTR gear box is 4wd.

at least set of gts-t/gtr brake or even some aftermaket brake.

prepare to run top of the range sport tyre everyday, even R compound tyre.

yeah the car would only be used as a daily driver, drift and drag..

and i got a price from a known performace workshop and they said a drive in and drive away rb26 conversion for around the $8k

i was thinking.. the closer to standard rb26 would last longer than a modded sr20

you can't fit an RB25det g/box to an RB26dett ..  

you can however lock the g/box so that it'll run 2wd.

Considering that all RB blocks have the same bellhousing bolts you can run an RB20 RWD gearbox behind an RB26 if you wanted to.

It would be easier to run the ECR33 or Z32 gearbox (VG30 boxes fit, but have a shorter length to the shifter and a couple of minor things).

A more labour intensive approach is to use an RB26 box and disconnect the 4wd mechanism. But then you have a very very heavy gearbox, and might find yourself running out of mates when you need to change it.

this is a bloody heavy engine for drift work u would find it much harder to control the car cause of the weight in the front end pure momentum would send u off the track or close to it. but also like mines meantioned with the 26 in a rwd car u would find the wheels wont fully grip till like 3rd gear and still get heavy wheel spin in 2nd gear

this is a bloody heavy engine for drift work u would find it much harder to control the car cause of the weight in the front end pure momentum would send u off the track or close to it. but also like mines meantioned with the 26 in a rwd car u would find the wheels wont fully grip till like 3rd gear and still get heavy wheel spin in 2nd gear

Heavier engine up front can be fixed with susp tuning, and as for too much power for a rwd chassis, again its all in the susp setup.

Drift cars are set up so they dont get traction. I also think a 250rwkw RB26 is going to be easier to control then a 250rwkw SR20 simply due to the power delivery being a lot more linear.

dude - i was going to do this project and have all the info that needed for conversion - the thing that stopped me was that fact that i waited 4 months for a RB26 and when i bought there was a prob with so i said fk this - not waiting another 4 months rb26 so now i'm rb25.

your best to go with RB25DET box - unless ur fkn good and can change the internals of the RB26 box to complfor your car. ur going to have to modify the sump and tailshaft , use the R33 crossmember as the engine will sit lower. and what eva ya need to know post it and i'll see if i can answer it

cheers

BRAD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...