Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was doing some searching on youtube and came across this American douche's video about his BOV

Anyway check it out. I'd be pretty pissed if my BOV was working the way his does with his extra efficient twin turbo setup. BOV FAIL anyone???

Some of the comments are pretty good and he gets pretty defensive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324649-errr-is-this-guy-for-real-real/
Share on other sites

It does seem odd, but reading the comments the makers of the product genuinely believe the product works and the theory behind it... I'm curious as it is difficult to see past the apparent flaw in the design.

what's up is they broke their blow off valve in the design stage and decided to make it anyway. They do make filters for BOV's (Blits Super Sound had them for a while) but I think they were only there to change the sound it produced. This thing is blowing air out at idle and at wot and he says it's because of how efficient the turbo setup is. BS! This thing would play havoc on an Airflow metered setup, you'd be coughing and spluttering all over the place if you even made it out of the drive.

EDIT - Here's the link to the BOV on the manufacturers website clicky just go to products then BOV. Apart from them sounding not too sure what their BOV is exactly, it also says it will never leak boost. I guess that means aside from at idle or at WOT with an extremely efficient turbo setup :D:(;)

there is nothing wrong with what he is saying

the company had some brilliant ground breaking idea of having a BOV that opens at low load/under vaccum, from memory it was for quicker throttle response, as when you crack the throttle, the air has a much shorter inlet path to the plenum, because intercoolers and piping and the whole turbo system is a big restriction.

the guy in the video is talking about that product specifically, because it draws in air under vaccum, people like to put filters on them. but hes saying that because the bimmer turbo is so 'efficient' and flows enough air, that there is actualy no vaccum through the BOV (again, keep in mind, this is product specific).

stupid thing is, if there is no vaccum though the BOV, there is no need to use their product on that car lol. that said it will probly open if you suddenly stab the throttle. i still found it funny though

Edited by VB-
Maybe I'm just being a troll... but... "FAKE AND GAY."

yeah they see you trolling.... They Hating... lol

But seriously it is legit. Check out their website I posted the link to it earlier. seems they have figured out a way to make all the jap BOV's obsolete due to their new "better" design

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...