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'polishing' R34 Headlight Covers


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Hi all,

I've been told by quite a few people (including an import place) lately that I can polish the plastic headlight covers of my R34 with 'something' and they will come up good as new.

They have been slightly 'faded' with a smokey, scuffed look since I got the car from Japan. You can kind of see this in the attached photo.

Unfortunately no one has been able to tell me exactly what I should be using or how to do it.

Does anyone know more about this?

Cheers!

post-71984-1276581209_thumb.jpg

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Hi all,

I've been told by quite a few people (including an import place) lately that I can polish the plastic headlight covers of my R34 with 'something' and they will come up good as new.

They have been slightly 'faded' with a smokey, scuffed look since I got the car from Japan. You can kind of see this in the attached photo.

Unfortunately no one has been able to tell me exactly what I should be using or how to do it.

Does anyone know more about this?

Cheers!

I used a product called glassylite to restore my headlights. It works exactly as they say in the instructions and comes with a sealant to help with oxidisation after you have cut them back.

Glassy Lite

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i had the same prob with my 33, a friend recommended Maguires PlastX it worked really well but i wasnt impressed with how long it lasted, maybe you have to use it a few times before it fully works??

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toothpaste and a shiteload of elbow grease, seriously used to work a treat on my 33 headlights, tho i admit i havent had to do the 34's.

if that doesnt work then go out and buy some fancy polish

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I've also tested the Glassylite, ordered it from Australia through a friend to get it to Sweden. It really works well!

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that glassylite stuff is cheaper to buy off their website direct than through ebay... $29.95 deiivered in Aust... if Ive read it right...

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i made an EPIC post here but my fucking cunting work computer owned me and deleted my post.

it had a lot of info here

short hand info.

the old wives tale of using cut compound to clean your lights is a very old addage and a BAD idea!!! cut compound is ROUGH and puts tiny scratches in your lenses. you scratch up your lenses,. you light goes EVERYwhere.

furthermore. cut compound is for CUTTING BACK AND REMOVING OLD PAINT. it has no UV protectant in it and little to no wax properties which the fragile perspex requires to be protected from UV rays. particularly australia's sun. which has bionic UV rays which tend to float around about the one billion UV rating. the australian sun is what yellows and corrodes your headlights in the first place. so they need to be protected.

SO DONT USE COMPOUND.

there. now that's sorted.

plastX has been around a few years. it has UV protectance in it which is a plus for "future" protecting. only do a small section at a time though. dont do all the headlight at once. or ninjas will kill your family and eat your KFC family box.

the LATEST product to hit the market here in AUS... is blue magic... australia currently is out of stock... so you might want to order it online..

.

bluemagic-headlamp-lens-restorer.jpg

the USA lexus guys SWEAR by it and say that it's yards better than plast-X. i would love to get some myself...

there is also a new ADR approved headlight tint (barely noticeable depending on which colour you get - ie: light blue is "barely there") the head light tint protects against ALL UV light and doesn't come off too easilly... it's been ADR approved to combat the aging headlight problems this country now has with many euro / american / japaense cars with plastic headlights and lazy owners who don't know to "maintain" their headlights.. (check out ANY chrysler neon)

google it to find an applicator near you... it's called crystallyte

most applicators will PROPERLY restore your headlight professionally and apply the tint for about 300AUD

(btw - crystallyte must be applied by an approved applicator for it to be ADR approved)

Edited by Mr Eps
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meguires scratch-x and a woolen puffing pad on a drill. takes about 10 seconds per light (takes longer to get the drill, etc than to actually do the job). also doesn't matter if you get it on the paint since that's what it is actually designed for.

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there is a DIY thread about using sandpaper to remove the yellowish, then polishing it back to new

Its what I did to my R33 cause it had the worst yellow fever lens's.

Wet and dry 1000,1200,1500,2000 grit, used as suggested.

Sanding horizotially and dropping through the grits till I hit 2000, plenty of water and the yellow fell off before my eyes...

Then I used Kitten liquid cut and polish polishing in small circles.

My lights look farking awesome again.

thanks to the thread from here.

Love this site

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  • 4 weeks later...

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