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Hmm, if I was to upgrade the turbo on an R32 GTS-t; what would be solid solution for a resonable price?

I want something that can handle about 1 bar of boost -- I've heard the stock ceramic turbine can have the compressor blades detach from the shaft at such a boost level.

Would a T28 (S15 Silvia) provide solid performance throughout the rev-range; and what does the R34 GT-T run? From what I can find out, T28's go for around $1000, so anything under $1500 is suitable, providing it runs on the stock ECU and bolts on cleanly.

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Elithrar, you wont be able to use the turbo off an S15 silvia without a fair bit of modification/custom exhaust manifolds. Flange bolt pattern is different.

For my R32 im planning on running an R33 turbo, in fact I have it in a box in my cupboard. Its still ceramic of course but because the RB20 is smaller in capacity than the RB25 you can actually get away with a bit more boost (or perhaps the same level for longer). IM not after a big power output (only around the 250rwhp mark) so it should manage. I bought my R33 turbo for $400. Prices seem to range between 350-600.

Red17

Plenty of RB20 owners including me have ran 14psi on std turbo. When i replaced my turbo it was still operating fine after a little over 150,000kms including penty of track days (approx 3,000kms on the track)

I bough the car with 70,000kms on it so cant speak for those kms, but from there my car ran 12-13psi every day, with probably 5,000kms at 14psi....and no problems.

So if all your looking for is an increase in performance and the baility to run 1bar of boost (14.5psi), then id suggest sticking with the std turbo, and ensuring that you have a good turbo back exhaust, filter, intercooler (these 3 things will have you running 13psi without a boost controller) and get a re-map of the std ecu to make sure the whole package is working together.

Id say the remap with std turbo is going to give you better and more reliable performance then any other turbo using std/stock ECU.

Thanks for info there Roy.

Reliability issues were my major gripe; I don't exactly want to have something 'break' at a time when I've just spent some money on another mod (for example, that is).

11-13psi (.75-.89 bar) sounds quite good on the stock turbo (stock is .6 bar, right?); I'd aim for a turbo upgrade somewhere along the track, but power isn't my first priority (say, 180-200rwkW) -- just a decent track weapon that can do well in drags.

How much is an ECU remap?

I have an rb25 turbo on my r32 which i got for $250:D. I run it at 14psi and its great, feels alot different to the stock turbo but pull all the way to redline. But i'm getting bored with it now and i'm thinking of getting an hks2530 or 35 in the future.

It makes about 180rwkw with zorst, fmic, ebc, remap chip ect.

I'll most likely run upped-boost for a time until I can afford a new turbo. The HKS GT-SS seems pretty suitable; fast spooling, but with solid performance too. Not sure whether that would bolt on; if not, how much would it cost to get a manifold constructed and the turbo fitted?

G,Day Elithrar

If your after a reliable and tuneable upgrade, I think you are better off having you stock t28 rebuilt with steel wheels with trims suited for more flow capacity and higher boost levels. Don't limit your power upgrade now buy having a ceramic turbo that can only hold 13-14 psi for half a day hard driving before it shits itself. (what HPI Vol 5 )

The RB20 unlike the RB25 can handle 1.5 bar without modifing internals. As mine has!

You will undoubtebly search for more power in the future and the turbo should not be the weakest link as it is one of the most costly components to the system.

The difference from runnig 1 bar to 1.5 bar on a stock RB20 means you need to consider the following upgrades.

Dump pipe, cat and muffler atleast 75-80mm (3 inch)

ECU piggy back controlers like Apex power FC or custom ECU remap

Qaulity front mount intercooler

High capacity fuel pump(GTR works well) and a high press fuel regulator

550cc injectors

Oil breather & catch can

Quality manifold pressure release valve ( blow off valve )

Electronic adjustable boost controller

Of course all this power will be dodgy if you havn't tightend up the chassis with strut tower braces and decent springs and shocks. Then you need a better clutch and possibly a tighter LSD.

As you can see, when you take a jump up in performace of the turbo, the flow on effect of upgrades is very costly.

At least you can run 1 bar on stock engine with Steel wheel turbo, 75mm exhaust, front mount cooler and piggy back ecu set up to take advantage of the mods. This will be very reliable for a long time and you have the option of upgrading every else before you turn the wick up on the boost controller.

I suggest do the chassis, clutch, wheels and tyres first.

Good Luck, Keep us informed of progress

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