Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I was driving my R33 home from work today and noticed when accelerating from 80 - 100 in 5th under heavy load there was a chatter coming from the engine bay somewhere. Not too sure what it is but I did notice that my A/F ratio is running pretty rich (13 - 13.5)

I took off the pod recently and put back the stock airbox however I think the SAFC was tuned with the pod on.

Any thoughts on what the sound might be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325312-chatter-noise-under-load/
Share on other sites

14.7 is stoich, but you only use that for cruise. when it comes to putting load on in a turbo car then you want things to be 12 or less (anything higher than about 12.5 at high boost and rpm is going to have a short life), however at 80 to 120kmh in 5th gear you are pretty low in the revs so 13.5 probably wouldn't be too far off the mark.

what did the noise actually sound like? was is like a marble in a tin can? if so then that is most likely pinging, which is bad. however if it starts doing it more often in other gears and rev ranges then you may have a broken manifold stud and the sound is the gasket vibrating.

if the sound was more like it was misfiring then it's either your coils or spark plugs

It may be pinging as Marc said. If so, you can top up your fuel with extra toluene (methylbenzene) just to check.

Alternatively, octane booster can be used; but 1x bottle will make little difference. 2x bottles are needed to check.

If pinging ceases, then your state of tune will need to be rectified.

thanks for the replies guys,

when driving home on some nice road it didn't really sound like marbles in a can. oddly enough the only sort of sound I can compare it to was two pieces of paper hitting each other really quickly. It also isn't a constant noise.

Ill put some octane booster in over the weekend to see if it helps.

Might also go through the engine bay to see if anything is loose.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well I finally got one of the NVH guys at work out over lunch to listen to the chatter.

Found out that the sound of coming from the gearbox/gear stick.

When I am accelerating in 5th gear and push the gear stick up and to the left the chatter sound becomes worse but when the gear stick is pulled slightly downward it goes away.

We were thinking it may be gear boot related. Has anyone else had this issue before?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...