Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently brought a r33 gtr and it has got the common coil pack problems as it miss badly and sometimes when cold it even stalls. My question is I used to own a r33 gtst s2 and I have a set of splitfires and harness from that, can I wire them into the gtr so I can use those splitfires and also it gets rid of the ignitor box thing?

Cheers,

Trav

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325477-puttin-s2-coil-packs-in-33-gtr/
Share on other sites

A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff

it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

Its only a temp fix and also only if the insulation is the fault. If the coils broken down inside all the cleaning and insulating wont do jack

Same with an afm cleaning or re soldering 95% of the time will do jack once its f**ked its f**ked it will nearly always need a new element/hotwire

Edited by jjskyline79
A bit off topic, but I was reading a thread up here where you can fix the coilpack problems in the gtr's by putting high temp silicone on the hairline cracks that commonly appear on the coilpacks. Haven't done mine yet but seemingly everyone who has done this has fixed the problem.

Hi Ash,Better fix for you is URETHANE SEAL COAT,post-36964-1277096851_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1277101931_thumb.jpg

,

Hope this help`s you ,it`s a good fix & is not as messy as SILICONE ,& you can spray them any colour when done,

cheer`s Chuckie.

its probably easier to fit the correct coilpacks and sell your old S2 stuff

it would be easy to sell the S2 stuff and coilpacks are a common failure in the skyline, so your best to fix it properly and be done with it

Yer good point, I'll just sell my old ones and buy some new ones :whistling:

Thanks

not sure it will work as the ecu will have a differant trigger for the inbuilt ingniters vs the external igniter

Not so sure about that dave, im pretty sure they are both the same trigger. As far as the ecu is concerned, both setups have external igniters. Actually im sure it can be done, as i recently wired an rb26 ecu to run a neo headed car

  • 4 weeks later...

So is there a wiring diagram for the R32 GTR igniter box or is it straight one to one plus the extra earth as on the igniter. It has 6pins (1 2 3 4 5 6)on the cold side and 7 pins (E 1 2 3 4 5 6) on the hot side

^ too true

just done mine then and tested and working perfect...

No need to sell my DIS-005's and buy DIS-001 for my 32 GTR

Have my R32 GTR running External Igniterless using DIS-005 Splitfires and its much cleaner looking to and saved my self a head ache and money buying/selling/swapping Coils only to be undone by the commonly Faulty R32 Igniter/Amplifier :woot:

Edited by krayzie32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...