Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok my climate control is faulty, so how do I fix it? I did the diagnostic and it flashes up 25 (sunload sensor) and -26 (PBR). I don't know what the PBR is, and I don't know why it flashes up with a negative symbol.

Can someone tell me how I would fix both of these things?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32565-faulty-climate-control/
Share on other sites

Oops I forgot to describe the symptoms. At night the climate control is still cold, even when set to 32 degrees. Well it's slightly warmer when set to 32, but still relatively freezing. If I turn the a/c off, it starts to warm up slightly, but still nowhere near 32, and of course then the glass fogs up because the a/c is off. So I'm doing an endless adjustment of the climate control between keeping the temperature right and the fog off the windows. It's annoying to say the least.

Thanks for that info 2fardown, I didn't think to put it in the sun to try it. Maybe it's fine, so that would leave the PBR I guess? Hmm.

er yeah.. sounds like possibly stuffed vent control.

When i pulled it all apart, worked out roughly how it works.. heater is constantly on, (although there maybe some type of control from the engine side via controlling the amount of coolant/heat going to it), basically fan blows through aircon, and there is a flap in the heater box that opens and closes. Depending on the amount of heat or cool to give you xx degrees, the flap is either full open or full closed, or somewhere in between.

Therefore it *sounds* like your flap is stuck on full close, just letting aircon through.. It could also indicate a possible electrical fault in the eCU or rest of the wiring somewhere meaning the signal to "start heating" or 'start cooling" is stuffed.

Anyhow, have a play and see what you discover.

Well I ran the second test which is meant to test the mode doors and they all came up ok. I could hear them moving around so I'm pretty sure that's not it. It just seems to have difficulty in determining the temperature.

I'll try the test again in sunlight and if that clears but I still get the PBR error I guess I'll have to look into it further. Otherwise buggered if I know what's wrong.

It could be a fault with the internal temp sensor. This is located in the dash below the gauge cluster. You can see it because it draws air in through a vent. There is supposed to be a hose connected to this vent which commonly goes missing when people remove the dash fascia.

inside the vent is a temperature sensor which is always getting really dusty. Spray some electrical contact cleaner on it after removing as much excess dust as you can.

Ill try to find a pic.

Another suggestion is to see if the heater core is blocked. Run the car to operating temp.

You should see 2 water hoses running into the cabin (not aircon) they both should be hot. if only one is hot, then the core may be blocked. just a suggestion :0-)

Ta

Mal

I spoke to someone that knows more about this thing, and they reckon that there is a valve in one of the hoses that often plays up. He reckons that this is more likely the cause than a blocked heater core. He said that it was on the inside of the firewall where one of the heater hoses comes in. Aside from that though I don't have much of an idea of how to get it out or replace it. Does the dash need to come out? Anyone with experience and/or photos please help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...