Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

thought i would put up what we've been making a few of lately.

These braces are made from 5000 series aluminium (magnesium alloy), with laser cut and CNC pressed strut tops and gussets.

Here's a few pics of the process and the result. At the moment we have a couple getting around on EVO 6's and a front and rear one on my bmw. Would love to buy a proper pedestal polishing machine but turns out they're rather expensive. FYI these have only been lightly polished using "Brasso", but its good shit!

sorry bout the small pics, and excuse me tacking it together in a shirt.. its a bad habit which i do pay for in the end.. when i finish weld them i wear long sleeve!!

post-30449-1277168457_thumb.jpg post-30449-1277168448_thumb.jpg

post-30449-1277168464_thumb.jpg post-30449-1277168474_thumb.jpg

post-30449-1277168481_thumb.jpg post-30449-1277168690_thumb.jpg

Edited by kristafa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325838-alloy-strut-braces/
Share on other sites

Hey Julz,

We'd love to offer these for as many cars as possible. We're already taking the steps to make these for EVO 8 + 9 now due to demand. We'll be happy to draw up anything if they bring a car around for measuring up.

In your case you might have to wait until someone from Brissie with an r34 comes for a fitting..

but if you have any queries, let me know via PM as this is a fabrication thread, not sales.. thanks bud.

Christo.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Julz,

We'd love to offer these for as many cars as possible. We're already taking the steps to make these for EVO 8 + 9 now due to demand. We'll be happy to draw up anything if they bring a car around for measuring up.

In your case you might have to wait until someone from Brissie with an r34 comes for a fitting..

but if you have any queries, let me know via PM as this is a fabrication thread, not sales.. thanks bud.

Christo.

ok cool

well if u know anyone in qld with a 34 that could swing by ur workshop for u to measure up that would be awesome

  • 2 months later...

haha yeh that's my bmw with the 26, will be in Zoom magazine coming out this week! pretty excited :-D

anyway sorry guys nothing for skylines yet until someone takes the first step and comes for a measure and fit! Though we did produce one for an EVO 9 and have since sold a couple interstate.

Also the new EVO 9 heatshield in that pic..

post-30449-1284941986_thumb.jpg

what if i send u up a standard strut brace and just told u how meaty i wanted it to be. then measure from the centre to the firewall??

is that still a tad difficult?

if u look at my display pic u can see one there, exactly how i want it.

do u know any good fabricators in melbourne who could make me one. i fkn love that thing. would love a triangle brace in the boot as well.

cheers

julz

Edited by GUN_METAL_GTR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...