Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have never been to any other places besides Toysgarage in Fairfield (my brother inlaw's place) so I dont know much out there but you can basically go to any good machanics and get it done, I would personally go to a machanic that are knowlegable about performance vehicles, rather then a general mechanics ones. beside changing the engine's oil, oil and air filters, spark plugs, they should also inspect your engine bay areas, all the joints, bearings under the car for wear and tear. alternatively you can DIY just do a basic service, go to a spare parts retail and tell them your car make, year model etc... and ask them for oil/air filters, set of spark plugs and dont forget a quality bottel of oil.

hope that help! :down:

+1 Ive never taken any of my cars to a mechanic

id rather keen my $90p/h to myself

90 and hour? pfft thats cheap...most places charge 100+

1+ for doing basic oil/filter stuff yourself....and brakes to a certain extent but don't go playing around with your brakes unless you know what your doing.

For the guys wanted to know where to go to, please use the search function. Penty of threads on this topic over the years and months.

Thanks.

p.s. team PSR work on my race car LOL

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...