Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yup, is turbo balancing really expensive in aus or something? The balancing is the only part i cant do myself.

$75 bucks here so no biggie

We have rebuilt a few turbos internally for ourselves and mates and honestly it is no black art, i have been quoted 1100 for something we achieved in house for $250 including wheels, bearings and out sourced for pro blanace job. I wont do it for a paying customer as i CBF'd with the warranty issues if it ever arose (remove and refit say on a GTR would be 1500 alone in lost time and money).

I'm with you on this Mike. If you are happy to do the labour and if its only going to cost around $600 why not.

At the end of the day you will have steel wheels, which will run more than 1 bar boost and make good power. As for lag you might only be slighty behind say a pair of HKS GTSS turbos given you are using smaller exhaust housings, but will probably still be able to see good power.

I have had my GTR for 7 years with stock turbos and their obviously considered laggy but its still fun to drive.

Make sure you post up results.

  • 7 months later...

Hi people, I have recently purchased the rebuilt turbos from the seller and about to install those recond. R33 stock turbos with steel wheels, so-called ebay n1 turbos. I was going to get GTSS or Garette 2860-9 but since we don't have a decent tuner here in Korea... and personally I am not a big fan of pursuing for big HP... I've decided to stick to stock steel wheeled turbos this time.

I will let you gentlemen know how I am getting along as I am about to install those either next week or the following period.

balancing is hit miss.... You might get lucky putting one together where it will be close enough to balanced and you will getting away with it....

But Ive seen and done balancing on turbos (heavy diesel turbos) and what they do is clean everything up, replace what needs to be replaced. Assemble the shaft, compressor wheel and thrust washers onto the shaft etc. Then place it between two spring loaded pointed ends so that the points sit in each end of the shaft, Rotate the shaft with a dial gauge on the shaft (compressor wheel end pretty sure) and make sure that the shaft sits straight with everything on. Tolerances we were going to were 0.002" or similar, If there was more then this the shaft was removed, nut loosened and either the parts rotated (one at a time, slightly) then nut re-torqued and put back on to check for straightness again. If all else failed then items were replaced (thrust washers and nut mainly, compressor wheel in worst case scenarios) till it was right.

Then everything marked with some special thing for marking steel (I dont remember what it was haha) so it could be put back together the same when doing full asembly

Balancing was then done, a metallic silver pen was used to paint one fin on each of the wheels, and the balancing machine setup. Then the balancing machine runs the turbo up and measures the metallic mark. The machine is pretty cool, measures vibration and degree at which the vibration occurs then bring it up on the maching, you can rotate the turbo shaft and it tells you at what degree your at, then 2 displays of where the wheels are out of balance and tells you how much weight needs to be shedded. Weight can then be removed from the wheels then the balancing repeated till it comes up within tolerances (dont remember these)

Then everything was pulled off the shaft and the turbo assembled fully. The exhaust wheel and shaft were clamped in a vice and the turbo built ontop of that, minus the exhaust hosing which is installed last when all the internals are installed

This is all from memory so hope I rememberd right. Im not saying this is how its done everywhere and anywhere, just how it was done. Nor am I taking shots at anyone, just trying to share my experience as it was interesting to me :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...