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f**k the mines ecu right off to start with its not doing you any favours

I concur! Get rid of the mines ecu for starters.

I used to get the same spiking as you did.

1) get rid off the tap, and T off the wastegate from your jpipe nipple using a thin pipe - That will tell you whether your taps faulty or not. You should see around 7psi solid.

2) Check your timing. This turned out to be my issue as it was set to 12.5 rather then 15.

3) Check plugs/coils to see if its misfiring

4) Check for any vacumm leaks

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alright to clear up everyone " hating " on me i took the car into the tuner and he plugged it into the computer.

turns out i have a f***ed O2 sensor and a vac leak i already knew about and check to see if my knock sensors are plugged in and if they are and its still doing the same after everything else is fixed then its them.

SO!

no the ecu isnt crap! i said previously i am saving for a power fc or something along those lines and for 500 bucks the mines is the cheapest and best thing i could afford to pump up my power straight away. then once i have enough money i can sell it for around the same price i bought it for. so no loss.

surprising that no one mentioned the O2 sensor for this problem because its not reading correct air fuel mixture right so therefore as a safe guard retarding timing and wasting a lot of my fuel.

he said bring it back in once they are fixed and its going nuts for a power run to check everything is safe which i was going to do anyway.

so i will post on here when they are all fixed and if it goes as good as it should be.

I thought I read it all... but what car again???? Also what turbo????

I'm assuming RB20DET? if so with those mods working well i'd expect around 140 - 150 rwkw, not 200rwkw - as the limit is the turbo. (If RB20 + RB25 / VG30 turbo expect around 180 - 200 depending on boost - but again this depends how much boost you want to run due to ceramic and steel wheels in the turbo)

AFAIK the mines ecu will still R & R - it is just a different map to provide better gains to suit a specific setup. The FCD is a cheap option to get around the R & R when running more boost.

If it's RB25DET then with the addition of a FCD and R & R not taking over (regardless of std / mines ecu) i'd expect around 180 - 200rwkw from 10 - 14psi.

At the end of the day, as everyone has said take it to your tuner they should be able to offer cheap options as simple as a HKS FCD and power run with slight tweak to get AFR's decent to the PFC you speak of and Full MAP tune.

sorry forgot to mention its rb25det with standard turbo

O2 sensor wont affect power only fuel consumption. Under WOT the ecu doesnt care what the O2 sensor is saying.

The vacuum leak is an issue though, you would be loosing boost pressure.

yea its the gromet thing forgot the name, but it plugs up into the cam cover on the middle side of the left one. you think gasket goop would help seal it up? lol just something thats free to maybe save me finding a new one haha

my mate has a series 2 r33 . it has a nz made exhaust . a chinese front mount . a hks (POS) foam pod filter and a r32 waste gate actuator . it has done a 13.4 at ruapuna on an un prepped track on its first outing

stock ecu

and lots of passion.

if your "tuner" thinks its the o2 sensor then tell him hes an idiot and find someone else

we plugged it into the computer and the o2 sensor fault came up. tested the sensor on the computer and its not reading right and the air fuel mixture is well over 100. it should be on 100 or very close. it was around 115 then resetting itself. so its running way to rich and retarding alot of timing. how else is it caused when everything else is fine on the car besides the knock sensors and o2 sensor?

its the pcv grommet . go to cockram nissan and get a new one for $7.50

or is the pcv valve leaking? (bypassing)

are you mates with scott and blair by chance?

and its the seel/grommet bit that doesnt seal properly.

alright to clear up everyone " hating " on me i took the car into the tuner and he plugged it into the computer.

turns out i have a f***ed O2 sensor and a vac leak i already knew about and check to see if my knock sensors are plugged in and if they are and its still doing the same after everything else is fixed then its them.

SO!

no the ecu isnt crap! i said previously i am saving for a power fc or something along those lines and for 500 bucks the mines is the cheapest and best thing i could afford to pump up my power straight away. then once i have enough money i can sell it for around the same price i bought it for. so no loss.

surprising that no one mentioned the O2 sensor for this problem because its not reading correct air fuel mixture right so therefore as a safe guard retarding timing and wasting a lot of my fuel.

he said bring it back in once they are fixed and its going nuts for a power run to check everything is safe which i was going to do anyway.

so i will post on here when they are all fixed and if it goes as good as it should be.

no, the mines ecu is crap! did mines specifically ask exactly which mods u had and then made the ecu to suit? i dont think so, those ecu's are pre-tuned to suit god knows what (im guessing stage 1 mods) and they've probably just got a leaner air-fuel mixture and advanced timing to squeeze out a lil more power but how safe is it?

if u wanna be cheap just run the standard ecu atleast it'll be safe, and for what you've got u could run an safcII, i made 30rwhp from a 30minute tune with mine (same mods as u). then sell the mines ecu and u'll have 250 in ur wallet.

for 500 u could skip the safcII and mines ecu and get nistune, since u wanna be cheap dont even think about a power fc, nistune will be fine

only trying to help mate do whatever u want its your car

no, the mines ecu is crap!

Seen many work very well first hand. Never heard of one actually running bad, they are based on a stock car with no more than breathing mods. I personally believe limitations/expectations can be taken as the same as stock, with dyno time to support.

Have although read LOTS of non-user feedback :D

no the ecu isnt crap! i said previously i am saving for a power fc or something along those lines and for 500 bucks the mines is the cheapest and best thing i could afford to pump up my power straight away. then once i have enough money i can sell it for around the same price i bought it for. so no loss.

surprising that no one mentioned the O2 sensor for this problem because its not reading correct air fuel mixture right so therefore as a safe guard retarding timing and wasting a lot of my fuel.

Ok firstly find a proper performance mechanic, not one that uses the nissan diagnostic tool only to find your problems.

2ndly the mines ECU is complete rubbish, sell it and put your stock ECU back in, if anything the mines ECU is going to be worse because its just got a shitty chip that is designed for japanese fuel and climates, not australian ones causing R&R to happen much sooner. All they do is advance the timing massively and richen it up, neither are what you want, all it will do is cause R&R sooner and probably cause the motor to ping its tits off killing the motor in a short period of time. Do not listen to advice from whoever told you to buy that ECU again.

Now once you have found a proper nissan performance mechanic and reinstalled your standard ecu I highly recommend a nistune. A nistune will be installed into your standard ECU and will allow the mechanic to tune it as if it was a full aftermarket ECU, they can tune fuel and ignition along with a load of other features.

This will fix the R&R issue you are having, it will let them lean out the mixtures and add extra timing all over the map. This will allow you to run you 13psi of boost, it will give you way more power and better fuel economy.

A proper mechanic who tunes and installs nistune modules regularly should be able to confirm whether or not your O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

we plugged it into the computer and the o2 sensor fault came up. tested the sensor on the computer and its not reading right and the air fuel mixture is well over 100. it should be on 100 or very close. it was around 115 then resetting itself. so its running way to rich and retarding alot of timing. how else is it caused when everything else is fine on the car besides the knock sensors and o2 sensor?

The reason it is running rich is that is what the ECU tune you just paid money for is, rich. The reason the timing is retarded is they advance the timing so far that the ecu detects very high knock levels and winds it back way past what even the standard tune would have. This is 100% expected as you have a tune that was designed for a different engine configuration than yours. Even with the same mods just the fuel and climate change is enough to put the tune completely out of whack.

Seen many work very well first hand. Never heard of one actually running bad, they are based on a stock car with no more than breathing mods. I personally believe limitations/expectations can be taken as the same as stock, with dyno time to support.

Have although read LOTS of non-user feedback :)

It is not the fact the ECU is bad, it is the fact you are putting an untuned ECU into your car, even if you had a $5k motec computer and didn't tune it our opinion would be it is shit. The whole point of replacing an ECU is so you can get it tuned to suit the specific car, chipping it is just dumb waste of time and money 90% of the time.

since u wanna be cheap dont even think about a power fc, nistune will be fine

Nistune is as good as powerFC is my opinion, if anything it is better as it retains the stock ecu making it 'legal' when going through inspections, contains all the standard features as well meaning you get great idle when flicking the ac on off etc. I know you can get this with a PFC but it isn't as easy.

I will probly take the car into NZEFI later in the week and get them to see whats going on. but not looking to spend that much more money on this thing. with the mods i have and the ecu it should be around 200kw as is. but i think its more around 140kw as on the factory ecu my best quarter mile time was only 15.5 wtf!

so now you all know how slow my car really is.

I'd be surprised if it was making more than 120kw with the tune so out of whack that it is winding the timing back due to knock levels.

Edited by Rolls
we plugged it into the computer and the o2 sensor fault came up. tested the sensor on the computer and its not reading right and the air fuel mixture is well over 100. it should be on 100 or very close. it was around 115 then resetting itself. so its running way to rich and retarding alot of timing. how else is it caused when everything else is fine on the car besides the knock sensors and o2 sensor?

its already been mentioned but you must have missed it so here it is in caps

O2 SENSOR IS IGNORED UNDER FULL LOAD, it is only ever used under cruise loads and only when throttle and rpm are constant.

what does the 100 refer to? units of awesome?

as said several times, get rid of the mines ecu

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