Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, 

First off i've read through COUNTLESS threads and posts, but have not found the answer.

Ok so I got new L.E.D's for my 2003 coupe, the parkers went in fine and are working.

So I got h1's and h4's for the regular and high beams respectively. 

I jacked the car up went through the panel and removed the front bumped blah blah, got access to the lights, removed the old regular beam globe, then replaced it with the h1, tested and it was fine. Then as I was putting the globe back in I had real trouble with the 2 metal washers getting them to lock in.

I eventually got them sort of in, and re-tested...nothing!

I'm totally lost as 2 what happened, but i'm guessing it has something to do with the metal washers.

Do they have to be touching? Like the way it was in, it had the metal washer, globe, then the other washer behind that? 

Any ideas? 

I have already taken it to an auto electrician when i was getting my window motor replaced and he said 'you'll have to take it to a panel beater as I cant get access to the lights' obviously he couldn't be bothered!

Thanks!  

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326823-major-problem-with-headlight/
Share on other sites

Those LED bulbs are evil. They give off wrong voltage reading to the BCM or the ECU and the car start to think something is faulty.

My bro in law had this dreaded Alfa which he changed the parker bulb to one of those LED bulb thing or something.

He complaint that if he didn't start his car for a while the battery will go flat. During one night I noticed that even at power off, one of the LED bulb are still ON! basically faintly still on emiting a very faint light - now - no wonder his battery kept getting flat. Also every time he start the car, the on-board dashboard warning will give out a "Left Light Error", "Right Light Error" message, scaring off prospective buyers which made it took us more than 6 month to get rid of the car and I had to run around replacing all the LED bulbs back to normal bulb...

I wish you luck with those bulbs. You better hope you didn't fried some circuit in the car because of that...! Some things are meant to be left alone in these cars, mate... they're not your average Datsun 120Y

Oh really! Yeah i'm really hoping I havent fried a wire!

Their aren't any warning lights, and all the other lights on that side and everything else work, just can't get that particular regular beam to work!

Even when I changed it back to the standard globe it still would not light!

With H1 bulbs, the framing around the bulb is the grounding for it - so if that area isnt 'right', the bulb won't have any grounding and won't work.

I'm wondering if that's where you're having issues with these 'washers'. Poking around that area with a multimeter on the source wire, and back to the body ground should tell you if there's a problem with the grounding or something more serious, either way.

Oh ok!

The grounding I did not know, as when I re-tried and tried I had removed the washers.

But the first time I had them clicked in it must have been close to right as they were working.

So do I just have to get the metal parts to line up and fold on set of tabs back to kind of hold it together?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...