Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for the ultimate jap racing bling check out the KEY!S wheels. http://www.cardome.com/keys/op03.shtml

I'm rocking one in the 33 GTR atm. it sure is 'out there' but feels great and I am a massive wanker anyway so the little stars stitched into the rim don't bother me...

yeah baby.

2008_titl_bg.gif

they do have the pedigree. mines one like this. not suede though.

2008_p7.jpg

Damnit Baron ! your making this hard :D I really like that Keys Wheel now, the flat non suede one Thanks for the Link :( I don't know what I want now, seriously it's like clothes shopping with a woman lol

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

^^^ Bloody hell!

That Keys wheel could be the best thing in the world and suck you off for all I care, but no way could I look at it all day!

I'd want them to come to the party with a serious sponsorship package to warrant a bloody logo of that size inside my car! :P

lol, sorry neesan... well if you were in sydney I'd say come and try the personal grinta and the KEY!S. both feel great. marlin is pretty jealous of the appearance of my keys wheel I can tell..

mine is the semi-cone or flat type I forget which (I think flat type which does still have a small amount of dish), plain black leather, in your face white stitching! yeah baby. the one thing to bear in mind is the white stitching does get a bit dirty/dull with use. not bad but I can notice it a bit.

they are all expensive but the nardis, personals, and KEY!S all feel very nice. it's a pretty tactile part of the car and a shit wheel definitely dampens the enjoyment. spending $400 or so for a good one is worth it imo.

word. anything you need to look at or touch a lot needs the $$, gauges, wheel, seat, knob, belts etc all make you happy when they are nice. :D

and the fact is the cheap shit just wears out. the cheap fake leather $100 wheels last bugger all. as above my first personal grinta has been going for at least 8 years in my possession and a few more before that I'd say and still in good enough shape. $100 wheel lucky to last 1 or 2 years tops, so I'd have gone through maybe 5 or 6 of them in that time.

word. anything you need to look at or touch a lot needs the $, gauges, wheel, seat, knob, belts etc all make you happy when they are nice. :D

and the fact is the cheap shit just wears out. the cheap fake leather $100 wheels last bugger all. as above my first personal grinta has been going for at least 8 years in my possession and a few more before that I'd say and still in good enough shape. $100 wheel lucky to last 1 or 2 years tops, so I'd have gone through maybe 5 or 6 of them in that time.

Thanks for the Offer :D Unfortunately I'm a banana bender :D

Do you mind if I ask where you look at wheels and that sort of interior stuff as Ebaby and some of the other places are a little hit and miss.

As for my Car I plan on doing the wheel, leave the standard GT-R seat in it, throw a harness in probably a gt500 gearknob and I only use Apexi gauges as I agree with the interior being super important to the feel and enjoyment of the car.

lol personal. I've got one of those in the navara ute. got it for $10.

for race use, a suede wheel with no/little dish + a just jap quick release is the way to go. for street driving any leather 330mm wheel is good.

I think 350 is too large and 300 is too small (although mark swears by the small wheels).

330 suede for me from OMP or sparco.

Thanks for the Offer :) Unfortunately I'm a banana bender :)

Do you mind if I ask where you look at wheels and that sort of interior stuff as Ebaby and some of the other places are a little hit and miss.

As for my Car I plan on doing the wheel, leave the standard GT-R seat in it, throw a harness in probably a gt500 gearknob and I only use Apexi gauges as I agree with the interior being super important to the feel and enjoyment of the car.

www.rhdjapan.com

I have a deep dish OMP wheel which I like because it gets the wheel off my knees. I find that for my best seating position on the peddles, I need to reach for the wheel just a bit and my knees are too close to the wheel.

I have been looking at wheels a bit lately and found these on Just Jap. I haven't tried them but the look good for the $$$. I have heard there pretty good but like I said, I haven't seen or tried, yet.

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=283&page=1

believe it or not i finf these wheels fantastic dude i have one in my garage and i prefer it over my $1000 sparco carbon fibre steering wheel.

I have an OMP WRC in suede which I love - they do come in smooth leather.

It has a slight dish to it which is fine normally, but now I am looking at a quick release hopefully it isn't going to sit too close.

See http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ui-t328473.html

I have the same in leather.

I found i needed the dish to get the wheel in a better position for me in the r32. It works well in my s13 too.

DSC00500.jpg

S13 has no power steering so 350 helps for leverage.

I'm not particularly comfortable with smaller wheels either for some reason. I swapped the 330 momo out of my other car for a horrible autotechnica as i just didn't like it.

Thanks for the Offer :D Unfortunately I'm a banana bender :D

Do you mind if I ask where you look at wheels and that sort of interior stuff as Ebaby and some of the other places are a little hit and miss.

As for my Car I plan on doing the wheel, leave the standard GT-R seat in it, throw a harness in probably a gt500 gearknob and I only use Apexi gauges as I agree with the interior being super important to the feel and enjoyment of the car.

most of my gear I buy direct in japan. in a pinch I'd say nengun etc could do it. or contact one of the traders who buys and ships parts from japan. it does seem a bit dumb though as most of the wheels are actually italian made but popular on japanese cars.

you interior set-up sounds great except for one thing. for use with a harness I would go to a fixed back fibreglass bucket seat. the stock GTR seats don't work too well with hanresses. in any big accident they will just snap in half and if you go into a wall backwards you'll end up in the backseat or out through the rear windscreen at worst! plus they don't have proper guides for either the shoulder or lap belts and certainly can't use with a 5 or 6 point belt with nut buster strap.

something like a velo GP 90 is excellent and can be had pretty cheap if you buy a lightly used one. I'd say $400 would be a fair budget for one. much safer and much better feel too.

I have the same in leather.

I found i needed the dish to get the wheel in a better position for me in the r32. It works well in my s13 too.

DSC00500.jpg

S13 has no power steering so 350 helps for leverage.

I'm not particularly comfortable with smaller wheels either for some reason. I swapped the 330 momo out of my other car for a horrible autotechnica as i just didn't like it.

What seat are you running? Any other pictures? I have a pair of matching MOmo seats that I am now having to sell as one of them has a damaged lower left corner from where a friend installed it in his car and it was rubbing on where he mounted his harness eyelet. So the drivers seat probably is only good for a playstation setup but the passenger seat is still good. Sux because the damaged seat is Jason Brights old HRT seat, its even signed by him :D

What seat are you running? Any other pictures? I have a pair of matching MOmo seats that I am now having to sell as one of them has a damaged lower left corner from where a friend installed it in his car and it was rubbing on where he mounted his harness eyelet. So the drivers seat probably is only good for a playstation setup but the passenger seat is still good. Sux because the damaged seat is Jason Brights old HRT seat, its even signed by him :D

that story is enough to make me cry. I remember the day we got Jason Bright to sign the seat for you too... :D It was nearly enough for you to stop calling me cnt about me having got glen seton to sign his old seat in my car the year before. nearly enough..... :)

dead set you can have the seton seat if you want it mate. It was only my seat cause you already had a kick arse seat with pedigree... now that yours is fked you rightfully have rights on mine but be prepared for me to call you cnt for months and months if you take it...

or even better let's get you a ex skaife seat or dig up some ex mark webber merc CLK seat....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...