Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched but couldn't find a write up of how to install a 4wd-RWD toggle switch on the R32. So after finding one on another forum and doing this mod myself today, I thought i'd contribute a little and write up how I did it.

It shouldn't take much longer than 20-30 minutes. If that...

I did find conflicting information about the actual fuse location. Some sources say its in the engine bay fuse box, other sources say its on the interior fuse panel.

Further research concluded to me that the engine bay fuse will remove 4wd only, while the interior fuse will remove 4wd and ABS/Anti-lock.

Tools / equipment needed:

- Phillips head screw driver

- Wire stripper / cutter

- 2 x lengths of wire for the switch (length will depend on where you put the switch, i used about 20-30cm for each wire)

- 2 x Female connectors (for the switch)

- 2 x Insulated wire connectors (to wire the switch in)

- A switch (i got mine from supercheap auto, cost about $9 but there are cheaper ones there)

1) Remove the interior driver side plastic under neath the steering wheel area.

2) Locate the fuse panel and the 4WD fuse. It will be the red 10A fuse in the top left corner.

Remove this fuse and start the car. The 4wd and Anti-lock dash lights should light up if you've taken the correct fuse out.

01072010_006.jpg

3) Turn the car off, replace the 10A fuse and remove the fuse panel. It is held in place with one screw in the left corner, and a plastic clip on the right side.

4) Behind the 4wd fuse, there is a blue wire with a white stripe. You will need to wire the switch into this wire so you can cut the circuit going to the 4wd fuse.

5) Cut the blue/white striped wire and connect one length of wire to each end. These will be wired to your switch. Connect the female connectors to the ends of these wires.

01072010_005.jpg

6) Work out the placement of the switch and run the wires to this location. I placed mine to the right of the steering wheel in one of the removable plastic bits. I had to drill a 12.5mm hole to fit the switch as per the instructions that came with it.

01072010_002.jpg

7) Connect the switch and test to see if it works. The dash lights should switch on and off and you should (i did anyway) hear an audible "woosh"... what i can only assume is the 4wd system depressurising and re-pressurising as the switch is turned on and off...(someone may need to verify this...)

8) Once you have it all working properly. Re-assemble the fuse panel and interior panels.

01072010_008.jpg

9) Enjoy :D

I hope this info is correct. Of course, feel free to correct me on anything and i'll fix it up.

Cheers,

Mark

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the kind words everyone :P

Birth:

As far as i know, yes it does. I mentioned this on the 5th line of the original post.

The Anti-lock light also comes on when i turn the switch off, which leads me to believe ABS is also disabled... not 100% sure if they're actually the same thing or not though haha.

As far as i know, the 4wd only fuse is in the engine bay... but it looked like it would have been a bigger pain in the arse to wire a switch into, so i just used the interior one.

I keep it 4wd most of the time anyway so im not too clued in on how it actually changes the handling of the car.

I did this mod mostly out of interests sake.... and boredom :mad:

Cheers,

Mark

  • 4 weeks later...

Spinning the wheels is fun so a toggle switch is the way to go. But after having a 4wd skyline I don't think I could ever go back to only having rwd. 4wd is so much fun on dirt, handling is insane. Also it just ploughs through the mud patches out on the farm when it rains. Ha ha!

  • 10 months later...

Wiring a switch to the 4wd fuse in the engine bay requires you to turn the car off and then back on to get 4wd back, but the incar fuse can be switch on and off whenever and shouldnt matter.

Something to do with the power feed to your 4wd computer in the boot.

Purely for w@nk factor, anyone know where I could get a fighter style switch? like where you have to pop a cap before the flip can be switched?

Superchump? Jaycar? Dickos? etc etc

I have one in my wagon for 2WD but be careful, if you have a 33 GTS4 you can't do it the same way the R32 guys do.

An even better way would be to leave the wire in tact and run some blades into the fuse position. I have done it that way before and the blades never fell out. Saves pulling the car apart and cutting the wiring. Also allows you to return it to stock with no evidence that you have been out flogging the ass off it in 2WD :D Only sort of downfall is that you will need to run a fuse in this wiring but thats not that hard. A proper fuse holder doesnt cost much and can be tucked away under the dash without to many issues

From memory you still need to switch the car off and restart it to enable the 4WD system to work again.... its been a few years since i have done this mod

In a 33 GTS4/GTR, 34GTR you will need to remove the front driveshaft as the 4WD system works differently

Edited by ido09s

In a 33 GTS4/GTR, 34GTR you will need to remove the front driveshaft as the 4WD system works differently

Correct!

I've attempted this in my 32 GTR, however i quite like my ABS so i took the unit out.

There are torque split controllers that are much more effective at this task and do not disable ABS. I simply haven't gotten around to purchasing one :)

In a 33 GTS4/GTR, 34GTR you will need to remove the front driveshaft as the 4WD system works differently

It is different but there is a technique to put it in 2WD mode without dropping the front shaft.

It runs a 5% preload whereas the 32 era doesn't, in the workshop manual it outlines the two methods of putting the car in 2WD mode. One is dropping the shaft, the other is disconnecting the air bleed plug and pumping the brake pedal 5 times after you start the car. It works so well that I installed a switch and drive around every day in 2WD (until I broke the gearbox doing too many skids on semi slicks, but that's another story).

Point is, transfer case is fine and 4WD works perfectly when I want it to.

When was the last time you changed the transfer case oil? What did it look/smell like?

5% isnt a lot but i dont know that i would want to do it every day. I would compare it to driving around with your brake pedal on 5%. See how long the brake pads/discs take to wear out. Even with 5% it will be wearing the clutch packs out prematurely.

When was the last time you changed the transfer case oil? What did it look/smell like?

5% isnt a lot but i dont know that i would want to do it every day. I would compare it to driving around with your brake pedal on 5%. See how long the brake pads/discs take to wear out. Even with 5% it will be wearing the clutch packs out prematurely.

the method he's describing (with disconnecting the air bleed blug and the 5 pumps on the pedal) put the car into a diagnostic/test mode and de-pressurise the transfer case. having said that though I thought there was some physical/mechanical (not hydraulic) pre-load in the 33 transfer case but maybe it is all hydraulic and is all removed doing the procedure outlined above. haven't bothered to play with 33s enough even when I owned them.

agree with brad though about using blade connecters and a fuse inline with the switch. that ways it's easy to remove and also easier to install. and yes 100% doing the in-cabin fuse there does disable both ABS and AWD. no you don't need to turn the car off to get AWD back, but you do have to come to a complete stop (then the system self checks. it needs the ABS/wheel speed sensors to be not moving to complete the self check properly, then AWD and ABS is re-engaged).

the poor mans switch is just switch the car off whilst car is moving over 20km/h. then turn it back on (still rolling over 20km/h). as the AWD/ABS system can't complete the ABS sensor check it goes into no AWD/ABS mode same as with the switch. good to use at the drags etc as you can pull your burnout etc and as soon as you come to a complete stop AWD re-engages automatically (no need to remember to flip a switch). again this ONLY works in R32 GTR and GTS4.

When was the last time you changed the transfer case oil? What did it look/smell like?

5% isnt a lot but i dont know that i would want to do it every day. I would compare it to driving around with your brake pedal on 5%. See how long the brake pads/discs take to wear out. Even with 5% it will be wearing the clutch packs out prematurely.

Not for a while but I would think over a year of driving around in 2WD that it would have killed my transfer case by now. There is NO preload on the transfer case with this method.

I'm not the only one do this, there are several of us in WA that KNOW it works - we even run cars up on the dyno like this.

Words don't describe my disappointment at not being able to do this with my car, I was amped!

You can!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...