Jump to content
SAU Community

Cleaning Inside Of Crankshaft

James_03

By James_03,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Rifle barrel brushes. Not sure if thats the proper term.

They look like twined fencing wire and the end has plastic strands wound in with it and you twirl them in and out of holes with your choice of cleaning product/solvent. Thats what the ones I have look like, no doubt there are a variety of similiar looking products which will do the job just as good.

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted

Can of carby cleaner, thin stiff pipe brush, air compressor and blower. Take grubs out, pump the carby cleaner in, brush as much as you can then blow out any loose bits and repeat until carby cleaner is coming out clear then do it one more time to be sure.

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah I ended up getting a "moroso engine block cleaning kit" from repco. Had to order it in.

http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=993

I was told by a couple of guys that the spray gun cleaning kit works great too as you mention r31. Now just need some carby cleaner and Im set, got a HD air compressor off a mate too blow it all out at the end.

Thanks guys.

Edited by James_03
  • 2 weeks later...
v1ncint2 Newbie

v1ncint2

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

For those of you who have done it, what's the best way to go about cleaning the inside of a grub screwed crank?

Apparently you can get wire brush cleaners that you can bend to get inside?

Cheers.

yes its called a valve guide brush....

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

well i just bought a full set. 50 bucks.

the broom man. not the brush man.

3x1/4" 3x5/16" 1x5/8"long and a 4" bore brush.

he makes them all, and to any size. no website but.

The Broom Man

10 Campbell Rd, Kenthurst, NSW 2156

p: 02 9654 9065 f: 02 9654 9065

Sammy Collaborator

Sammy

Posted
Posted

Hot-tank is just a strong caustic solution. Pure caustic powder/soda can be bought at your local supermarket.

Cold-tank i'm unsure of, but can't be caustic because it would turn alloy into a lovely poisonous gas/sludge. I'd say it would be a solvent of some variety that's fairly PH neutral, like degreasers in a can.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

yeah i know the hot tank stuff, but the cold tank i thought was a solvent de-carboniser solution, till i put my hand in it and the next week i lost all the skin off it. after i turned yellow that is... you put water in it to stop it evaporating and keep the smell down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...