Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well that got your attention i'm sure. No, i'm not asking about how to break into skylines.

What i WOULD like to know is what is the most common way that skylines get stolen? I'm looking at importing one soon and need to know what sort of security i'd need to install to stop mine getting nicked.

Obviously if anybody would mind posting about how theirs or somebody else's skylines got nicked it would help us all out.

Thanks for you time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32766-easiest-way-to-break-into-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

Somehow I don't think you're going to get many replies to this. While you may have the best of intentions with regard to using the information, anyone can read this thread and there are those that would try to use a list containing details of "How my Skyline was broken into" for much less honorable purposes...theiving scum :)

Get a decent quality alarm, immbobilizer, tracker and crook lock. If funds permit, a custom car-sized bank vault, 2 big dogs and a military regiment for good measure should pretty much guarrantee your cars safety...:(

Somehow I don't think you're going to get many replies to this. While you may have the best of intentions with regard to using the information, anyone can read this thread and there are those that would try to use a list containing details of "How my Skyline was broken into" for much less honorable purposes...theiving scum :)

Get a decent quality alarm, immbobilizer, tracker and crook lock. If funds permit, a custom car-sized bank vault, 2 big dogs and a military regiment for good measure should pretty much guarrantee your cars safety...:(

LOL, you're probably right.

In the UK there are hardly any Skylines, every single one has been imported as far as i know. I'd like to think that because of how rare they are there aren't any special 'techniques' for breaking into them, (For instance, on a 1994 Calibra you could place half a tennis ball to the door lock and punch it to open the central locking) and that your average immoboliser and tracker could stop thieves.

I COULD get some killer dogs to patrol my car day and night, and to water the alloys day and night too ;), but that could prove very expensive. I guess there isn't much you can do against thieves. They'll always find a way around the best security systems.

I'm from the UK originally (Derby, midlands) so I know what it's like. Had my crappy metro broken into more times than I care to remember, once for an El Cheapo subwoofer and goodmans stereo! :(

A good alarm, installed by a reputable electrician is a must. I'd also recommend an immobilzer if possible, and a crook lock if you don't mind the extra hassle. Nevertheless, cars still get taken and there isn't much you can do to stop a determined, proffessional thief. There's often reports on the UK skyline boards of cars being stolen, in some cases houses being broken into with the sole puropse of locating the keys to the car...:);)

I'm from the UK originally (Derby, midlands) so I know what it's like. Had my crappy metro broken into more times than I care to remember, once for an El Cheapo subwoofer and goodmans stereo! :(

A good alarm, installed by a reputable electrician is a must. I'd also recommend an immobilzer if possible, and a crook lock if you don't mind the extra hassle. Nevertheless, cars still get taken and there isn't much you can do to stop a determined, proffessional thief. There's often reports on the UK skyline boards of cars being stolen, in some cases houses being broken into with the sole puropse of locating the keys to the car...:);)

Mate, it pisses me off to hear about car thieves. I know a guy that has had his Nova (crap 1.2 first car) broken into about 3 times purely because of his speakers! I'm lucky in that i've only had one attempt on my car, but then again i drive a Ford Fiesta so its hardly a performance machine!!!

I heard about an R34 stolen in London. The description went something like, "Skyline R34 1999 stolen in London. Black, alloy wheels, immoboliser, alarm, T-reg, Thief had a one metre gun".

Yeah, not stolen from his driveway - the poor bloke had a gun pointed in his face as the thief drove off in his car.

You all want to know the real best way to stop ya car getting nicked. A big mofo dog, dobermans are normally really good. No one will go NEAR it with one of those. Unless they have a tilt tray, then they dont care :(

You all want to know the real best way to stop ya car getting nicked.  A big mofo dog, dobermans are normally really good.  No one will go NEAR it with one of those.  Unless they have a tilt tray, then they dont care :(

LOL - this is so true.

My sister breeds Dobermans, I've been tempted to get one of the boys she has and chain him up at the car :)

They are great when your their friend, but stuffed if I'd go near one that I don't know !!!

J

Hmmm. I am gunna get into trouble for this but anyhow.

Well help in stopping your car getting stolen get a immobilser and alarm installed by a auto elec. These things are never installed right for under $100.

By far the easiest way into a R33 would have to be the window. Either driver or passenger. Go out to you car and use your imagination as if you wanted to steal the damn thing and didn't car for the window guides or rubbers.

Please be aware all Skyline owners have pitt bulls, alarms/immb and are angry as F**K if you go near their car with this intention.

Getting in is dead easy. A brick, as has already been said, or a BIG screwdriver into the lock barrel. Then a big twist with massive hairy tattooed arms, will easily spring open the lock, and completely stuff your door skin as well.

Forget about keeping anyone out, it is just not possible.

But there are lots of sneaky ways to prevent anyone from starting the engine, especially if the very loud alarm is going absolutely nuts.

A tracking device is a good idea as well.

Whatever you do, don't put those stupid stickers on the window that says "protected by thief stopper alarm model XYZ"

You need layered protection. A big ugly steering wheel lock that can be seen, a good alarm/immobiliser, PLUS something extra, like a secret fuel pump or airflow meter isolation switch that you have fitted yourself, and a tracker if possible.

There are lots of ways to hide a switch. One way is to use a factory switch on the dash that is already there right under the thief's nose. Another way is a magnetic reed switch glued behind a piece of plastic somewhere. Only YOU know EXACTLY where to stick the magnet to operate the completely hidden from view switch. Do not try hiding the switch under the seat or dashboard, the thief will feel around under there and find it in two seconds.

I have had one car stolen from my driveway. Never again.

In the old west, they used to hang horse thieves. Bloody good idea.

In the old west, they used to hang horse thieves. Bloody good idea.

i reckon the more ponies (hp) you steal, the worse the punishment should be

i know this isnt the right thread, but where can we purchase these "magentic reed switches"? they sound like a very good idea, and seem very versatile. any ideas for a sydneysider?

I had my second car stolen (HSC VS Clubsport), middle of the day busy Westfields car park, stock immobiliser with piggy-backed $600.00 alarm with 3way immobiliser, steering locked and club locked.

How did they steal it? They towed it away of course!!! middle of the day, busy car park, oh and the alarm had a tow-awat sensor so the alarm would of been going ape shit while all this happened. NSW Car Theft - Gotta love it :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...