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Being a manual you have a few other options, pretty much all options for 34GTT will work, if it was auto then Nistune is really the only option that will work with the auto box.

Nistune boards are about $250 if you don't want the software aswell, carton of piss for an electronics dude to install it in your stock ECU then a few hundred bucks for a tune.

Stock injectors should be good for ~230rwkw, any more then you need to look for bigger, injectors for Neo engines aren't super common either. I'm about to commence looking into highflowing the stockers before my Nistune board arrives.. spent big on aftermarket injectors for the 32 twice and there's no way in hell I'm doing that again.

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Hmmk, that's a little more than the 1000cc Rochesters cost me and about half the price the 550cc Denso's did!

Everyone who I've seen put those Seimens injectors in their R34 had to make up spacers for the fuel rail..

You need 480+ injectors so those Siemens should be fine if you can make them fit. You will need Z32 afm and upgrade fuel pump if you haven't already. Newcastle's fame as a tuner free zone has spread to NZ so a trip to Sydney is indicated.

With 250 - 280 awkw car will be fast. Mine was pretty zippy with 245awkw but going the RB30 (plus bits as in my sig)route now. It is my daily driver and track car all in one (not recommended but i can't afford 2 cars).

If you haven't done anything to your suspension a massive rear sway bar will transform the whale like characteristics (plus a set of Bilsteins when you can).

The last car i had was a modded evo 7 so i definately need to get the car lower and stiffer.

Newcastle is crap for workshops tho the only thing i need someone else to do is the tuning. Who is good in sydney?

Are z32 afm easy to find and do the plugs need to be modded or anything?

Z32 afm's can be bought new with plugs (have to wire in the new plug) from most traders on this site, I got mine from Justjap.

It will never be as low and stiff as your evo, I've got non-adj. Tein coilovers and they make a huge difference, on the hunt for some 33/34gtr swaybars as they're meant to be a cheap upgrade.

Was thinking about getting the teins, only was worried they would be too stiff. Bought cheaper coilovers before and they were way too stiff even with the softest springs. Its the standard height now with crap tyres and the thing handles like the qE2.

Was thinking about getting the teins, only was worried they would be too stiff. Bought cheaper coilovers before and they were way too stiff even with the softest springs. Its the standard height now with crap tyres and the thing handles like the qE2.

Tolerable stiffness is subjective really.. I come from driving my stiff-as-fk 32 so they are quite bareable compared to driving my 32 on our shitty roads.

Not sure on the exact model of my Teins, can attempt to find out if you're interested.

BC's are nice for the money (coilovers) i have used the other "local" coil-over brands and they are all pretty average.

Seriously your stag with a T67 would be one of my "garage" cars (something id like in the garage), we have done quite a few stagea's and they come up great (even a few RWD only stags)

The auto 4wd versions with a 3000 stall converter and factory lock up is probably one of the most fun cars ive driven. They really wake up around the 280kw zone and are seriously fast.. A MV auto upgrade is also advised around the 280 and up mark and having installed a few can say their work is spot on, easy high 11 low 12 second wagon that is easy to live with as a daily is nothing to sneeze @.

Rear sway bar is Whiteline BNR11XX24mm (24mm solid not hollow like stocker) or equivalent. Or you could give your bar to a springmaker for a pattern and ask him to make one in 24mm solid bar. Get some adjustable castor rods and give it more castor for straight line stability at high speed. GTT or GTR brakes a good upgrade.

Sydney tuner Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering

Read the Stagea section - hundreds of pages of good info

BC's are nice for the money (coilovers) i have used the other "local" coil-over brands and they are all pretty average.

Seriously your stag with a T67 would be one of my "garage" cars (something id like in the garage), we have done quite a few stagea's and they come up great (even a few RWD only stags)

The auto 4wd versions with a 3000 stall converter and factory lock up is probably one of the most fun cars ive driven. They really wake up around the 280kw zone and are seriously fast.. A MV auto upgrade is also advised around the 280 and up mark and having installed a few can say their work is spot on, easy high 11 low 12 second wagon that is easy to live with as a daily is nothing to sneeze @.

I'm running BC's, very nice for the price with good spring rates. Everybody has different taste in dampening so adjustables are easiest to tune.

I also have a 3000 stall fitted, it is the perfect setup for the street letting the turbo spool almost instantly. Performance of a GTR with wagon practicality = win. :(

The Stagea forum has all the info you need.

I went the BC's so yes.

And yes GTR brakes fit as long as you run the GTR callipers and disks.

Need to redrill/tap the nuts for 14mm bolts though, please don't do what all the other geese are doing and sleeve the 12mm bolts :(

34GTT brakes will bolt straight up as they are already to suit 14mm bolts, you get a 310mm rotor then instead of 296mm with the GTR setup.

Edited by bubba
What about fitting brembos?

Depends what they're off...

Basically, R32/R33/s1 Stagea are 12mm bolts..

R34 and s2 Stagea are 14mm bolts..

Mounting dimensions are the same for all hubs, the difference being in the length of the legs on the caliper, this changes to suit different sized rotors.

I think Brembos off GTR's run an adapter bracket but I could be wrong.

Anyway, this talk is really suited to either the Stagea area or the Suspension/Braking area :(

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