Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just bought myself a r33 gtst from qld.

I need to get a road worthy done for the car to transfer it in my name.

the ex-owner got a rwc for me but I have to get a vic one to use in here.

I already wasted thousands for rejected roadworthy and they asked me to change everything.

Is there anyone that can point me to places where the person doing the roadworthy might "Overlook" a few things

And how much would it cost (estimate)

Please let me know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328484-road-worthy-certificate/
Share on other sites

Think about it this way. Do you like your car enough to want it to be road worthy? I sure as hell want mine to be. Just fix it. It's hard to get dogies these days because most mechanics are too scrared to do it

what are some of the things they are telling you to change? i know some can be very strict and want to you to change things that you have never heard of, happened to my parents, some of the things were very lol worthy, but thats what you get when you take it to a dealer for a roadworthy.

I'm getting mine Roadworthied in Vic and I just forked out $800 in parts (round figure I haven't made final payment yet) I'll have a go at putting everything in myself because it was gonna be over $1500 for labour

Roadys are the biggest crock of bullshit in the world as far as I am concerned. I just went through the punish of getting one on my 32 when I sold it. They pulled me up for:

- Front tyres ( camber wear, 2 month old $550 pair of tyres, inside cm, yes 1cm! of tread is below 1.5mm, rest is as new! wtf the tread tapers at the edges anyway?) what did I do I replaced them with a cheap old, hard, half worn pair of taxi tyres and they passed!

- Rust/crack in the rear qtr, 5 minutes of filler and touchup paint and its magically ok now?

- Worn steering wheel, $10 supercheap cover and that was ok then?

- Windscreen, because it's the original one so it's pretty old? WTF! not because it was chipped or broken or anything, because it's the original? Changed that.

- Wiper blades, but I put new wiper blades in last night? Didn't change them, just said I did when I took it back and it was ok.....work that one out?

- blocked window washer, one out of 4, pin, poke, unblocked.....maybe the only legit thing...

So really tell me, how does that make my car more roadworthy? cos those taxi tyres were f**kin poo in comparison to the semi's......

Anyway enough with the ranting, and on with my info :banana: Bit late now but you should have got the car changed into your name while you were up there buying it if he supplied u with a roady. All you need to do is have a garaging address up there you can give them, and the contact details/proof of address of the person living there. Then when you come back here there is no need for a roady to get it transfered as its in ur name there.

Out of interest what sort of things you ben pulled up on, might be able to help out.

^^^ :banana:

Yeah alot of the time they just write a heap of stuff down so it looks to vicroads like the roadworthier did a thorough job, whether or not you fixed it properly is irrelevant to the pen pusher

Its like if you have a bald spare your car is unroadworthy, but if you have no spare its fine....

I do know one who is brave enough to do an occasional dodgy one and I was lucky enough to get one from an owner who knows him and ....... surprise! surprise! The struts were revealed to be completely worn out through a random service by another mechanic that took place a month AFTER the roadworthy and I was left shitting myself scared to the guts thinking that I could have gotten into an accident on the freeway.

Think about it this way. Do you like your car enough to want it to be road worthy? I sure as hell want mine to be. Just fix it. It's hard to get dogies these days because most mechanics are too scrared to do it

Its true roadworthies are out there to make money aswell but I agree on major things that impact the car needed to be fixed like suspension issues major leaks tyres etc, I myself want my car always to be perfect so I dont mind fixing all the probelms. But little things that they pick people up on like say if your air con or heater doesnt work , small leaks and things like that are wrong, but yeah in the end if you get a roady at mechanics than go to another one 5 min later hell prob pick up different things from the previous one.

biggest scam ever mechanics make a mint off RWC..

but since your just wanting to transfer into your name it shouldnt be so bad, when your seller or been defected its 11bty times worse.

they are all dogs unless you know someone its an expensive excersice.

Ah man, that is NOTHING.

Went over the weekend to get my tipper truck inspected for r/w.

Geee, put it this way, im f*kin angry. Top it off, $300 gone.

He listed 20 items, only approx 5 defects were reasonable. After you leave your truck/car for inspection, you have to pay for the inspection, while the inspector does his best to put as much bullshit as possible for you not to come back, but if you do, he will make big $$$$ repairing bullshit.

Replacing windscreen is quite normal for some old car because of sand pitting over time, it's something you just can't avoid. When there's too much sand pitting on the screen, and the on coming traffic have their head light on, it can and will glare up your windscreen and you won't be able to see the road. Also for heater, what are you gonna do on a cold winter night and your windscreen is fogging up ??

Some of the mechanics can be way too picky I understand, but the main reason for RWC is the safety equipments on the car. If they let you go and VIC road mechanics inspect the car when you get your rego and found the car to be unroad worthy then they will go back to the mechanic and screw the mechanic who issue the RWC over.... and issue mechanics with fines and possible lose the RWC license.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...