Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was going to run WMI, but was told but so many people not to, I am kinda glad I didnt now, you are right water stays cooler for longer, but once it warms up it is almost impossible to get cold again with the size heat exchanger you can fit in most cars without lots of cutting etc.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It'll be a water to air intercooler. The water stays cool for a fair while after u slow down. 12psi is pretty low tho. Hottest days here in Tas are about 35 degrees at the very most and i won't have air con or anything. Also I'll be running a Haltech with air temp compensation set up to run richer once air temps get too high for my liking.

had nothing but trouble with W2A they heat soak way to much, i even tried a 600x400 radiator and an extra reserve in the boot to slow down heat soak. Under bonnet temps just kill the benefits... if you could mount the w2a in the cabin away from under bonnet heat it would be great.... just not practical.

There's a LOT of shit out there in terms of crap water to air intercoolers. I think that crap (75% of the stuff out there) gives it a bad name. I'm gonna give it a go in what i think would work with a massive overkill of radiator area (multiple radiators). Also the huge total surface area of the fins inside the intercooler is hundreds of times more than the outer surface of the heat exchanger. i can't see how it'd be affected by under bonnet temps any more than it does to intercooler piping. The thought of 30cm of total piping length plus an intercooler half the volume of a conventional fmic is too good not to at least try. i want near instant throttle response and full boost at about 2500rpm!

increase to 10:1 on pump your crazy... on E85 then your talking.

AEM ecu is awesome providing its the version 2. My favourite plug in ecu atm behind PFC.

crazy? maybe 11:1...or even 12:1 with E85... many can do all day with those comp ratios.

Higher comp is more efficient but too much with not good enough fuel means detonation.

Higher comp will make more power for the same level of boost, all else being equal.

Higher comp will bring boost on quicker.

Lower comp allows running more boost without detonation on the same fuel.

I read a lot about -9's and -5's. -9's fit a perfect to street car for what most people say, but once it reaches the upper rpms it runs out of it's puff, this is where the -5's shine.

Here's a dyno graph with a comparison of -9 and -5's, the taller line is obviously -5s, but you can see that the -9's match the description as above.. and notice that the -5's are only 300 rpms behind. But notice the torque curve... even though not sooner, but it allows you to say in gear longer before it dives down.

v4qiyg.jpg

They follow nearly nearly identical paths on the up climb (the difference noted above), the -5's does it more efficiently. I plotted both the -9's and -5's compressor maps. Like I said 77% over 74%, less hot air the better. Tuning and cams can make the -5 spin sooner.

I am after a track build, what ever gets me around the corners faster and have enough top end to keep up in the straights. Raising CR will allow more off-boost power, which for a tracker that means a fatter power band to be used. My differential ratio is 4.363, so naturally in the higher rpms...with this...it would make the -5 spin sooner...and in the end I would have a lot of top end too. A bit of tuning can make the -5's respond sooner as well.

i call bogus on the comparo.... ramp rates are not the same between runs.... i have the same dyno and can tell you the only way to split the runs like that is to either run a 4sec start delay to build boost or increase the ramp rate in seconds..

Power correction is in DIN which over inflates the power by a bit too (about 10-15rwkw @ that power)...

There's a LOT of shit out there in terms of crap water to air intercoolers. I think that crap (75% of the stuff out there) gives it a bad name. I'm gonna give it a go in what i think would work with a massive overkill of radiator area (multiple radiators). Also the huge total surface area of the fins inside the intercooler is hundreds of times more than the outer surface of the heat exchanger. i can't see how it'd be affected by under bonnet temps any more than it does to intercooler piping. The thought of 30cm of total piping length plus an intercooler half the volume of a conventional fmic is too good not to at least try. i want near instant throttle response and full boost at about 2500rpm!

we were using PWR kits.

we were using PWR kits.

I REALLY hate putting down Australian companys but that is exactly what I was talking about. The core design is terrible. The ratio of coolant to charge air area is way wrong and tube and fin intercoolers with the charge air going through the tubes like in an air to air is very inefficient in a water to air core.

Best is a very fine bar and plate design with lots of fin surface area. Also the coolant passages don't need to be anywhere as big as the air passages because the coolant can transfer heat much easier than water. This means more area for the charge air in the same physical dimensions.

Plazmaman or ARE are the way to go.

I agree that getting the heat out of the water is the hardest part and a huge challenge. I don't even know if it'll be any good but i'm willing to take the risk. I'm only aiming for 220-240rwkw and the car has heaps of frontal area to use for the radiators. (one in the middle where a FMIC goes , fully ducted and one off to the side where an oil cooler is usually mounted)

Edited by bradsm87

I REALLY hate putting down Australian companys but that is exactly what I was talking about. The core design is terrible. The ratio of coolant to charge air area is way wrong and tube and fin intercoolers with the charge air going through the tubes like in an air to air is very inefficient in a water to air core.

Best is a very fine bar and plate design with lots of fin surface area. Also the coolant passages don't need to be anywhere as big as the air passages because the coolant can transfer heat much easier than water. This means more area for the charge air in the same physical dimensions.

Plazmaman or ARE are the way to go.

I agree that getting the heat out of the water is the hardest part and a huge challenge. I don't even know if it'll be any good but i'm willing to take the risk. I'm only aiming for 220-240rwkw and the car has heaps of frontal area to use for the radiators. (one in the middle where a FMIC goes , fully ducted and one off to the side where an oil cooler is usually mounted)

yeah we gave up on them, ran a decent 115mm tube and fin cooler and car never ran better.... (bar and plate was just too heavy).

Higher comp is more efficient but too much with not good enough fuel means detonation.

Higher comp will make more power for the same level of boost, all else being equal.

Higher comp will bring boost on quicker.

Lower comp allows running more boost without detonation on the same fuel.

Increasing comp also reduces EGTS when running on E85.

about 9.7:1 and 18psi would be the highest I'd go on pump 98.

I know a guy who runs an 11:1 SR20 running 23psi on E85!!!

running big cams means you can get away with higher static comp ratios as the dynamic compression ratio decreases as well, keep this in mind.

  • 1 month later...

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp

Here is the calulator I was going to use but I do not know the "Deck Clearance (in.)Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deck" if anyone can help?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...