Jump to content
SAU Community

Pressure Washers

Blazk

By Blazk,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

Funny you bring this subject up Tobias cause I've just been through the whole exercise myself.

Let me know how much you wanna spend, what it'll be used for and I'll try and steer you in the right direction.

You'd want to consider going petrol rather electric for starters (my personal preference).

The Honda motors are very good but then there's the pump to consider as well. Beware of cheap Chinese pumps on Ebay and some local tool suppliers. Italian pumps are the way to go which are 'parts servicable units' unlike the cheaper Chinese pumps that fail under regular use and are a throw away item (not servicable).

Blazk Experienced

Blazk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Budget is quite small, i was reading a lot of reviews on electric vs petrol power. Karcher brands rate pretty high as well as bosch from what i have read. I would use it for engine bay and general car cleaning purposes. I hear that steam cleaners can clean up engine bays really well but i dont know enough information about them to do this.....

Edited by Blazk
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted
Budget is quite small, i was reading a lot of reviews on electric vs petrol power. Karcher brands rate pretty high as well as bosch from what i have read. I would use it for engine bay and general car cleaning purposes. I hear that steam cleaners can clean up engine bays really well but i dont know enough information about them to do this.....

My parents bought the Steam Dream from Danoz Direct...and it fails at cleaning my engine bay, and everything else we have tried doing with it.

skwiz Mentor

skwiz

Posted
Posted

Definatly don't buy Chinese petrol versions.

Rebuilt one at work a couple months back, one piston cost more than the whole engine..yet the guy still bought the new piston.

strange.

Blazk Experienced

Blazk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Definatly don't buy Chinese petrol versions.

Rebuilt one at work a couple months back, one piston cost more than the whole engine..yet the guy still bought the new piston.

strange.

lol, some people love their washers too much it seems.i see supercheap have a couple here

Edited by Blazk
mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

i have a kartcher thats about 15 yrs old it makes a few growly type noise's now and than and one wheel falls off when ya wheel it about

. but fark has it done some work it must have blasted tons of clay off my speedway cars over the yrs . ive done engine bays driveways even a house roof and large timber decks .

i imagine mine's about too the end of it's life by the sounds it makes but i would buy another one without blinking a eye dont waste ya money on cheap crap not worth it in the long run ..

Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted
if you're only doing engine bays etc then pretty much anything will do.

However, when you're doing stained concrete, pavers or stripping paint off walls etc, you need real power with a turbo head (pulsating) feature

...Sounds like a toothbrush :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...