Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does any one know the part number for the input shaft bearing for an rb20det gear box. also does any one have a factory type manual on the gearbox i cant find one all i can find is engine manuals. does any one know what the gearbox is actually called?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328884-rb20det-gear-box-help-needed/
Share on other sites

I think he might mean the actual input shaft bearing, not the pilot bush.

The part number you need for any bearings supplier is 6306 C3N or something with a 3 in the last digits. Don't get a regular 6306, the C3N depicts a extra tolerance gearbox bearing.

yeah i mean the input shaft bearing, i know where it is and how to get to it ect but i dont know the part number or any thing for it. its off my a31 cefiro with rb20det. so is 6306 C3N the right number for the input shaft bearing for an rb20det gear box.

cheers

If the bearing is a problem, it's more than likely in pieces through the gearbox.

When the input bearing failed on our VL (RB30) gearbox, we found VERY LARGE pieces of the cage etc in the oil when we dropped it...good luck reading it lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...