Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

My rb20det r32 Gts4 manual stock really struggles to rev high, i know the stock turbos run out off puff a bit after 5rpm but i have now been in someone elses stock rb20det and it seemed to pull almost to redline (6500), at any rate it was much faster than mine. It has no cat so runs 11psi due to that. The engine has a fair amount of blow by (it uses oil), no catch can.

I have:

-replaced my old iridium 1.1 spark plugs with standard at 1.1 gap (becuase stock boost)

-taped up the coil packs with pretty average insulation tape

-changed fuel filter

-cleaned AFM with CRC AFM cleaner

-replaced ECU with another stock one

-sprayed brakecleen around intake to look for leaks (it holds boost till 5rpm then drops off to about 9psi close to redline which is normal i presume)

-put the factory airbox back on instead of pod

-blocked off BOV

i cant really get to a dyno which is what i know most of you will suggest.

Could this be R&R? I don't know if r32's have that and if it was R&R it's not sudden it just feels quick from 2-4500 rpm then really feels like an NA after that (

My last idea is that the coil packs are no good even though the car runs smoothly with no missfires, is there a way to test these? Unplugging them is no good becuase it idles fine. Or could be timing but don't have a timing light.

Thanks guys i know this is a lot of information but i'd really like to sort this out so if anyone has any ideas i'd be really grateful.

I have done a search on similar problems and people end up taking their car to the dyno then never explaining how it went or what the problem was

To sum up my questions:

- Does anyone know what could be causing this (R&R?, timing?)

- How do you test coilpacks using multimeter (i have searched and people have different explanations 0-1ohms between what 2 points?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328999-do-r32s-have-rr-at-11psi/
Share on other sites

rb20 ecu will take 1 bar, or at least close to. i don't know if they have R&R at all. they certainly wouldn't have it at 11psi as that is only just above stock boost.

what mods do you have?

also if you have blow by then that will be affecting things a bit as well. the blow by may be causing problems, as well as the cause of the blow by may be an issue as well.

First off.. it's an airflow meter overvoltage cut..

Secondly, not sure the RB20's have it.. if I could max out the airflow meter without hitting it then I doubt they do.

Thirdly, do they have knock maps? Because all the oil be breathed could be making it knock..

Thanks for the replies guys.. here's an update..

i have replaced the coil packs and replaced spark plugs with 0.8mm gap. This made bugger all difference to the power curve, so i then clutched at a straw and fiddled with the timing (by advancing it without a timing light haha) and it now runs a bit better through out the rev range. Still blows considerable smoke.

My mods are:

- No cat

That is all.

I have been searching how to do the timing properly as i can borrow a mates light but people seem to have different answers so could you please clarify? I tried hooking the light around the wires coming out of coilpack #1 and it gave good signal so i just used that and set it to what i believe to be around 17 but that made it worse so i put it back to where i had it with my trial and error timing.

Cheers

Edited by rorz

i have just been using the search function here and google extensively and i cannot for the life of me find a nice solid set of instructions for checking/setting timing using a timing light for rb20det. Could someone please make a sticky and lay down the basics? i know for a fact i have set my timing wrong becuase it's pinging hard even though it 'should' be at 15degrees. i believe this basic check could help a lot of people with flat spots.

Thank you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...