Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I wanted the sound of the induction noise and wanted something that looks standard as well. I also have a HKS High flow panel in there as well..

I can put some pics up on it on the car, thats only if anyone is interested..

This is the standard box and I cut out the front side panel and put some mesh in there instead.

The car seems to go harder but its prob just because its colder now...

gallery_71124_3865_40999.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329213-r34-standard-airbox-mod/
Share on other sites

sorry if im incorrect but haven't you just bypassed the filter having that big hole at the top? doesn't standard air flow come from the bottom and flow up though the filter.

Or is that thick mesh and therefore doesn't matter so much?

Edited by R34 -_-
sorry if im incorrect but haven't you just bypassed the filter having that big hole at the top? doesn't standard air flow come from the bottom and flow up though the filter.

Or is that thick mesh and therefore doesn't matter so much?

i was thinking the same thing lol

sorry if im incorrect but haven't you just bypassed the filter having that big hole at the top? doesn't standard air flow come from the bottom and flow up though the filter.

Or is that thick mesh and therefore doesn't matter so much?

Yeah nah :P

Stock airbox top half is the intake side with the snorkel etc. Then you have the panel filter and bottom part with AFM on the outlet side. At least on GTT probably on GT too. GT-R is likely different.

Here's a pic:

Photo1101.jpg

Yeah nah :P

Stock airbox top half is the intake side with the snorkel etc. Then you have the panel filter and bottom part with AFM on the outlet side. At least on GTT probably on GT too. GT-R is likely different.

Yeah thats right, The air on the GTT comes from the top, not sure of GTR either...

P

so by cutting up the top cover you're essentially allowing hot engine air to come in and not just cold outside air through the snorkel ? I seriously can't see the point of this. Then again maybe the air from the front section near the headlight isn't that hot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...