Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

so ive limited the my choice of wheels down to two.

im not racing on them they are purely for street looks

being 4 stud im limited ... but i have found some i like but need help choosing haha

so first ones are the koya drift teks (i know there copies of the uras and they are copies of bee*r's)

andd

Koya Rg teks (apparently just been released)

ill be going 18'' and probly +34 offset ... ive been told offset doesnt change the dish.

so ive decided to turn to sau for opinions.

post-67206-1279359868_thumb.jpg

post-67206-1279359907_thumb.jpg

post-67206-1279359986_thumb.jpg

Edited by aussietroy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329289-need-help-picking-rims-for-my-32/
Share on other sites

haha, i like the dish of the lip on the nismo LMGT4's but they are too flat in the spokes imo ...

thats why i like the drifteks but thats just me

im not sure if the rims will get lost with silver on silver or not

but then again the darker ones will probly get lost at night ...

yeh im leaning more towards the drift teks

im abit funny on the rg teks ... there new so it would be something unique ....

but i have always liked drift teks and all the rims that they are copies of haha

haha, i like the dish of the lip on the nismo LMGT4's but they are too flat in the spokes imo ...

thats why i like the drifteks but thats just me

im not sure if the rims will get lost with silver on silver or not

but then again the darker ones will probly get lost at night ...

Go black or bronze in wheel colour and that should stand out to give some contrast.

Another wheel you might want to look into, Bee*R Racing Wheels.

wheelsilver01.jpg

yeh they are nice, but im pretty sure there discontinued and pretty pricey.

getting in 4stud is pretty hard and redrilling is too much effort.

going the cheap option haha

i think im gana go the drifteks

there copies of bee*r's and Lmgt4's.

done a fair bit of research haha

mate..

i know you get asked this all the time.. but why arent you going japanese??? are you SURE you cant afford it? like ACTUALLY sure?

pm me... i may have something for you... and yes. four stud is hard.. but not impossible!!!! if you want jap... get jap.

you never know. it may work out cheaper as a wheel n tyre package... hit me pm if you interested.

im assuming youre fairly new to these forums. quick lesson for you. if you buy cheap. you buy twice. howevr i may save you money anyway.

STOP THE COPY.

yeh they are nice, but im pretty sure there discontinued and pretty pricey.

getting in 4stud is pretty hard and redrilling is too much effort.

going the cheap option haha

i think im gana go the drifteks

there copies of bee*r's and Lmgt4's.

done a fair bit of research haha

Drift Teks it is man!

Get on it.

:happy:

i know from research that jap wheels are better quality and stronger and stuff but im not going to be racing they will only be for street use.

The drift teks are fair cheap and look good.

what would be the best offset to go without having to modify guards ??

thanks heaps for the help guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...