Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I reckon its time to update the lists of wreckers and workshops as they are out of date.

Firstly, we all know the rules NO OPINIONS.

all we need is places that people know and trust. Any negative info can be sent via PM.

This thread will only be open for a few days, so get your suggestions in!

have a look at the WRECKERS and the WORKSHOPS that are already listed (I'm pretty sure there are a couple in there that dont exist any more)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329438-update-for-wreckers-and-workshops/
Share on other sites

Boostworx change of address

Paint and Body Repair:

Pro Finish Custom Paint

2/20 Famechon Cr

Modbury North

Joe - 0411234992

All Type Crash

1395 Main North Road

Para Hills West

8281 0130

Edwardstown Custom Body Repairs

21 Bennet Ave

Melrose Park SA 5039

(08) 8277 8887‎

G R H Supplies (all sorts of clamps including t-bolts/worms and tools)

167-169 South Terrace

Wingfield SA 5013

(08) 8243 0944‎

Should we maybe run a poll with multiple selections, say at least 5 or 10 votes and they are in?

Or even a + 1 or - 1 system for each place? People can still give a -1 without going into detail, and means its a more fair system. For example, Damos mechanical workshop, i can give it a +1, but 20 people give it a -1, so it obviously shouldnt be in the recommended workshop section.

Just a thought.

Should we maybe run a poll with multiple selections, say at least 5 or 10 votes and they are in?

Or even a + 1 or - 1 system for each place? People can still give a -1 without going into detail, and means its a more fair system. For example, Damos mechanical workshop, i can give it a +1, but 20 people give it a -1, so it obviously shouldnt be in the recommended workshop section.

Just a thought.

Why? Everyone has mixed opinions about all of the workshops. Its not an endorsement, rather a list of workshops that people may choose to visit.. Leave it the way it is imho

Southern Hitech has a duplicated entry on the page - one from when they were called 'hitech dyno' only and were based upon south road.

-D

Import Compliance Systems

22 Pleasant Grove

Holden Hill

5088

Ph. 0400 945 645

Fax 08 8263 2300

[email protected]

C+A Developements

Hydraulic

Engineering

Race car fabrication

Ph. 08 8264 0844

fax. 08 8395 2970

Also Modbury Automatics are no longer around, Sam shut up shop there a few years ago.

HORSE POWER INNOVATIONS

gtr/skyline guru

0408836384

many of you probably know Brady from his Tilbrooks days

dudes a pedantic perfectionist just what you want in your mechanic

tell him Ryan sent you

Edited by 1400r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...