Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I reckon its time to update the lists of wreckers and workshops as they are out of date.

Firstly, we all know the rules NO OPINIONS.

all we need is places that people know and trust. Any negative info can be sent via PM.

This thread will only be open for a few days, so get your suggestions in!

have a look at the WRECKERS and the WORKSHOPS that are already listed (I'm pretty sure there are a couple in there that dont exist any more)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329438-update-for-wreckers-and-workshops/
Share on other sites

Boostworx change of address

Paint and Body Repair:

Pro Finish Custom Paint

2/20 Famechon Cr

Modbury North

Joe - 0411234992

All Type Crash

1395 Main North Road

Para Hills West

8281 0130

Edwardstown Custom Body Repairs

21 Bennet Ave

Melrose Park SA 5039

(08) 8277 8887‎

G R H Supplies (all sorts of clamps including t-bolts/worms and tools)

167-169 South Terrace

Wingfield SA 5013

(08) 8243 0944‎

Should we maybe run a poll with multiple selections, say at least 5 or 10 votes and they are in?

Or even a + 1 or - 1 system for each place? People can still give a -1 without going into detail, and means its a more fair system. For example, Damos mechanical workshop, i can give it a +1, but 20 people give it a -1, so it obviously shouldnt be in the recommended workshop section.

Just a thought.

Should we maybe run a poll with multiple selections, say at least 5 or 10 votes and they are in?

Or even a + 1 or - 1 system for each place? People can still give a -1 without going into detail, and means its a more fair system. For example, Damos mechanical workshop, i can give it a +1, but 20 people give it a -1, so it obviously shouldnt be in the recommended workshop section.

Just a thought.

Why? Everyone has mixed opinions about all of the workshops. Its not an endorsement, rather a list of workshops that people may choose to visit.. Leave it the way it is imho

Southern Hitech has a duplicated entry on the page - one from when they were called 'hitech dyno' only and were based upon south road.

-D

Import Compliance Systems

22 Pleasant Grove

Holden Hill

5088

Ph. 0400 945 645

Fax 08 8263 2300

[email protected]

C+A Developements

Hydraulic

Engineering

Race car fabrication

Ph. 08 8264 0844

fax. 08 8395 2970

Also Modbury Automatics are no longer around, Sam shut up shop there a few years ago.

HORSE POWER INNOVATIONS

gtr/skyline guru

0408836384

many of you probably know Brady from his Tilbrooks days

dudes a pedantic perfectionist just what you want in your mechanic

tell him Ryan sent you

Edited by 1400r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...