Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i just purchased my first R32 GTR on the weekend and upon driving it home have discovered this interesting issue.

I have searched already to try and find a problem the same as mine with no luck..

So i thought i'd create this thread and get all your opinions!

The situation: AWD works correctly (as far as i can tell) when there is legitament slip. The AWD light comes on upon start up like normal, then dissapears and does not return. NO AWD LIGHT ON WHEN FAULT IS OCCURING. My HICAS light is on however the car has an aftermarket wheel and i believe this is unrelated to the AWD issue?

I noticed the issue on the highway, at a constant speed with the motor under load (100kph / 110kph) everynow and again the AWD kicks in with the "torque gauge" registering a constant reading of 10, there is also a distinct noise associated with the AWD's operation (i believe this is due to a "slipping of the clutch / driveline to the front wheels") the problem however is that the AWD won't disengage automatically .. the throttle needs to be backed off for it to return to 100% RWD. This occured 10+ times over a 300km drive .. it seem's "bumps" caus this issue to occur more frequently.

Has anyone encountered this sort of an issue before? or does anyone have any idea's?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Additional info: The car is quite standard, cat back exhaust, "chipped" ECU running 13.5PSI making 239RWKW's - was tuned at RACEPACE 6 months ago. R34 GTR injectors, front mount oil cooler / aircon condensor. Car also has standard wheels, with 225/50 all round, the diff is quite noisy also.. .. not sure if any of this info is handy but i thought id mention it just in case.

Cheers for any advice,

Willis.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for the reply's. I havnt checked the attessa ecu yet, will do that though and post my findings here.

SiR RB the fluid in the attessa bottle in the boot is below the "low" line, but only just (less then a cm below the line)

How sensative is this level? There is pleanty of fluid in the bottle still.. could this be causing the problem?

Will do. What should i top it up with??

I read about using Castrol Transmax Z? Can this be mixed with whatever is already in there? I have no idea what fluid is currently in there.

What would you suggest to top it up with?

Edited by Willis

Nissan special power steering fluid is what the manual says. There's a fluids link at the top of this section that has more info (page 2 has a post near the bottom discussing the different viscosity required for attessa)

Check your tyres, do you have the exact same profile all around (ie 225/50/16 etc), and is the tyre brand and model the same on every corner. Also check you have the same tyre pressure on every corner.

doo doo i am currently in Wagga Wagga for work, and will be down here till christmas i'm afraid, but thanks a bunch for the offer.

i found mechanic who is a GTR enthusaist and owns a killer r32 GTR, and i am taking up my issue's with him! Hopefully it won't be too tricky to work out what's wrong.

Tyre's are all identical, and they are wearing evenly. Tyre pressure's.. not 100% sure, as we havnt checked them yet, will try that also. I'll have a good look over the car again this weekend and see if i can't get all the things you have suggested done.

Thanks again for your inputs.

Cheers!

Well i'm still learning but i am inclined to believe that this is NOT normal operation, as it will wear out the front driveline components as it's "slipping" 10% traction to the front.. and the noise that is associated with it doesn't sound healthy.

I will obviously post up here when it work out what it is!

Edited by Willis

One tip a shop told me is check the wiring underneath the centre console where the G-Sensor is. Perhaps an aftermarket unit controller was used in japan, or something is loose. Not sure if it is related to your problem though, just thought I'd mention it.

Yea, the g sensor is quite complex, it takes into account steering wheel angle, G-sensor, wheel speed sensors etc..

If your G sensor is fine, then it's the painful process of elimination :D

Best to bring it to a shop to plug in diagnosis? I recall it will pick up faulty sensors

the gauge going up to 10 in your driving scenario is not normal, some engagement of the system is though. I would also be checking the G sensor for being loose or previously modified in anyway. The AWD doesn't 'slip' as the wheels are going the same speed, only time there's a difference in speed is when you have wheelspin, so you don't need to worry that it's wearing out the system. I would imagine that any noise associated with it's operation is old bearings taking the load of the hydraulic action against the transfer case clutch pack when system engages, or possibly the hydraulic pump itself (which shouldn't be that loud anyway)

Well i'm glad that it isnt wearing out the system. Cheers for clearing that one up for me doo doo.

Yes i think i'll get my new mechanic to take a look.. hopefully we can find the problem!

Cheers again for all the input,

CeJay - i'll give that a go sometime for sure, cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...