Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, first things first, i have a psi guage, actualy in psi, and its the second one ive tried, and they both say psi.

now

my solonoid is out of the question, nothing runs to it at all nor is it plugged in, and i have the hose running straight to the actuator, im only getting 5 psi, i thought it might have been a leak in the system, but its a solid 5psi and dosent budge up or down when full throttling, if there was a leak the boost would drop slowly? or something

anyway, any ideas?

cheers

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Standard turbo?

If so then yes, about 5psi is all you will get running straight off the actuator.

yea standard, i thought the actuator is 10 psi?

do i have to hook the solonoid back up to get 7-8psi?

alright so im gonna have to hook it back up and then, do the DIY for high boost all the time correct?

Could just buy an rb20 r32 actuator?

getting a little hard to find these days, I Think I have one in storage lol

Could just buy an rb20 r32 actuator?

getting a little hard to find these days, I Think I have one in storage lol

i dont really want to run 10psi, im not into the whole "must go faster" thing anymore, just would like the standard boost! 10psi = screwy mixtures etc since i just have the standard ecu

yea standard, i thought the actuator is 10 psi?

do i have to hook the solonoid back up to get 7-8psi?

No you just have to reconnect the bleed line to the bov return pipe and play with the diameter of the restrictor until you get the desired boost - bigger diameter = more boost. If you have lost the restrictor you can just solder up that branch of the T and drill the hole progressively bigger till you get the desired result.

Get a $30 tap and set it to 0.7 bar (8psi) yourself like I did. Better than stock IMO, more torque down low (obviously) and spools a little sooner.

The turbotech one on ebay is the one I have, well documented on this forum as to how good they are.

GL

Get a $30 tap and set it to 0.7 bar (8psi) yourself like I did. Better than stock IMO, more torque down low (obviously) and spools a little sooner.

The turbotech one on ebay is the one I have, well documented on this forum as to how good they are.

GL

if im not mistaken, the taps are quite unreliable, ive used them in the past and they cause boost creep issues...

to be clear

standard R33 GTST auto is 5psi

standard R33 GTST manual is 7psi

both have a boost scramble or "boost hi mode" which bleeds in another 2psi around 4500rpm from the standard solenoid

if you bypass the standard solenoid and do nothing else minimum boost for auto is 5psi and manual is 7psi

to be clear

standard R33 GTST auto is 5psi

standard R33 GTST manual is 7psi

both have a boost scramble or "boost hi mode" which bleeds in another 2psi around 4500rpm from the standard solenoid

if you bypass the standard solenoid and do nothing else minimum boost for auto is 5psi and manual is 7psi

my car is manual and its 5psi, hosed to the actuator

maybe your turbocharger failed and yours has been replaced with an auto turbocharger?

maybe your actuator has failed and your actuator has been replaced with an auto actuator?

maybe your car was auto and converted to manual?

unlikely but possible

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...