Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any pointers?

I've jump started it from all sorts of things from GTi-R to a tow truck with twin batteries it still wouldn't start. In fact I've melted 2 jump start cable..

It just crank slowly, crank again then crank again till the cable melts...but funny enough it did start last weekend. Any ideas? It seems like there's not enough power to the starter to crank it into life. Funny enough the power windows refused to work as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/
Share on other sites

it might help if u have fuel in the car:D possibilities are starter motor?? did u play with the fuses?? i played with the fuses last time in my car and put one in the wrong place and it wouldnt jump start at all...it would crank over and then die. have u tried putting another battery in your car to see if its the battery at fault?

i dunno....good lucks with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-662476
Share on other sites

There's fuel but doesn't seem like a whole lot in there. Possibly drop another 5L in there and see how it goes...

Which fuse(s) should I check?

With batteries..haven't tried that but the battery shouldn't matter - at least with my other cars even if the battery's screwed, I can still jump start it just that it can't be charged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-662538
Share on other sites

coils not producing spark? spark plugs stuffed? I would say if you have cranked this car till the jumper cables have melted you would have done some serious damage to the starter, as it is only ment to run for 5 secs or so. Also, Im with Chucky, make sure your engine is properly earthed to the chassis, because a bad earth connection can make wires heat up and melt, especially when your using lots of amps when cranking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-664129
Share on other sites

And if your +ve wire or -ve has melted that would explain the slow cranking short of a stuffed starter...

Sumo

P.S. Sometimes its easier to just take it to a autoelec and they should if they are decent give you a heads up on what is going on, free of charge. I know at my work we do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-664166
Share on other sites

My experience has been that when the battery has totally died, and you need to jump start it, you need to have the 'jumper' connected to the 'jumpee' and engine idling for several minutes. The 'jumpee' battery needs at least some charge in it.

Also, the ECU needs something like 7V to activate itself. Cranking on a low battery will reduce the voltage available to the ECU to below the threshhold, and so the ECU will not activate, and if it isn't activated, it can't tell the coils to fire.

And don't forget, most cars have the battery up front, so there's not that much cable between the battery and the starter. The 33 has to get volts all the way up to the front from the boot.

If you can, connect the+ve jumper cable directly to the +ve of the starter motor, and the -ve directly to the engine block.

Alternatively, go and buy a new battery, and you'll avoid the "melted starter cables" syndrome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-665084
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...