Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any pointers?

I've jump started it from all sorts of things from GTi-R to a tow truck with twin batteries it still wouldn't start. In fact I've melted 2 jump start cable..

It just crank slowly, crank again then crank again till the cable melts...but funny enough it did start last weekend. Any ideas? It seems like there's not enough power to the starter to crank it into life. Funny enough the power windows refused to work as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/
Share on other sites

it might help if u have fuel in the car:D possibilities are starter motor?? did u play with the fuses?? i played with the fuses last time in my car and put one in the wrong place and it wouldnt jump start at all...it would crank over and then die. have u tried putting another battery in your car to see if its the battery at fault?

i dunno....good lucks with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-662476
Share on other sites

There's fuel but doesn't seem like a whole lot in there. Possibly drop another 5L in there and see how it goes...

Which fuse(s) should I check?

With batteries..haven't tried that but the battery shouldn't matter - at least with my other cars even if the battery's screwed, I can still jump start it just that it can't be charged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-662538
Share on other sites

coils not producing spark? spark plugs stuffed? I would say if you have cranked this car till the jumper cables have melted you would have done some serious damage to the starter, as it is only ment to run for 5 secs or so. Also, Im with Chucky, make sure your engine is properly earthed to the chassis, because a bad earth connection can make wires heat up and melt, especially when your using lots of amps when cranking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-664129
Share on other sites

And if your +ve wire or -ve has melted that would explain the slow cranking short of a stuffed starter...

Sumo

P.S. Sometimes its easier to just take it to a autoelec and they should if they are decent give you a heads up on what is going on, free of charge. I know at my work we do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-664166
Share on other sites

My experience has been that when the battery has totally died, and you need to jump start it, you need to have the 'jumper' connected to the 'jumpee' and engine idling for several minutes. The 'jumpee' battery needs at least some charge in it.

Also, the ECU needs something like 7V to activate itself. Cranking on a low battery will reduce the voltage available to the ECU to below the threshhold, and so the ECU will not activate, and if it isn't activated, it can't tell the coils to fire.

And don't forget, most cars have the battery up front, so there's not that much cable between the battery and the starter. The 33 has to get volts all the way up to the front from the boot.

If you can, connect the+ve jumper cable directly to the +ve of the starter motor, and the -ve directly to the engine block.

Alternatively, go and buy a new battery, and you'll avoid the "melted starter cables" syndrome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33004-r33-wouldnt-start/#findComment-665084
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...