Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Im running a group buy on AM Performance Blast pipes. they will be twin 4 inch pipes with angled up tips and a straight cut on the end of the pipe. they will have a single 3 or 4 inch entry (depending on your exhaust diameter) and available in muffled or straight thro configuration,

Put simply they look awesome and are high quality items.

Basically once you have the pipes you'd head to your nearest reputable exhaust shop and get them to weld it on and mount it with a couple of hangers... the blast pipes cant be supplied with welded on hangers due to the many different configurations out there.

I will be doing an order of 5 or 10 if i can get enough interest. But it will work like this.

5 orders, straight thro blast pipes $280 each or muffled $310 each

10 orders, straight thro blast pipes $250 each or muffled $280 each.

rrp is around 380 normally.

I will be running this for one month.. or earlier if i can get all the spots filled. but what i will need is payment and addresses of each order and then they will all be sent out. there will be a start and finish date for this buy. Start will be today and finish date will be 26/08/2010 or earlier if all 10 spots are filled. If i only have enough interest for 5 buys then i will go ahead with that and process the order earlier then the finish date.

People Interested

(updated with interest)

now for some pics so you all know what im talking about.

amperformanceblastpipes.jpg

tndsc04083.jpg

tndsc04079.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330404-am-performance-blast-pipes/
Share on other sites

Quality stuff guys, I've got a full exhaust from AM Performance on my car and the quality is second to none! Free plug for a great bloke!

+1, im over the moon with the full system andrew did for me :bigthumbsup:

Interested.

Whats the full width of these pipes and the lenght? Gotta make sure it fits thru the gap in my rear bar. Also shouldnt matter if the exhaust is put on the right hand side un like the pic up above on the left.

Edited by siddr20

hey mate.. doesnt matter if its left or right hand side as they are made symmetrical. width of the two pipes is 210mm and length is ROUghly 560mm.

also have added details up top. only 4 spots left

keen as simon for prob the muffled one.

does the muffled one change the look of it at all or is it internaly muffled?

cheers man

Edited by Import S13
  • 4 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...