Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've never seen a flat spot THAT bad on an R33 with stock ECU.

I've seen many small dips before, but nothing that severe!

Maybe your ECU was just really having a bad day!

Having a total shocker of a day !!

But now it's mega smooth.

For a stock ECU I'm really happy at how smooth it is now.

There's a bit of a dip right up top where the wastegate is having a hard time, but apart from that it's all good.

If I'm real keen I could squeeze another 1-1.5 psi out of it, then run it again on a cold day and maybe break 175rwkw on the stock ECU.... Or run it in shootout mode and it'll read higher.....If I'm really keen that is, which I'm not...

Just as a comparison on the dyno - A R32 GTR ran up straight after I did, this GTR did 240rwkw on a dyno down in Melb, and only pulled 225rwkw on this dyno. This same car has managed a 4.1 sec 0-100 time !!!

Just goes to show that you can't compare different dynos etc...

J

u sure the speedo isnt out of whack? the speedos are known to be out of whack alittle at those speeds, because my speedos seems to reading like 190km, but im in 5th gear and at 5k rpm, and hit the 180km/h speed cut.

Al,

I used a car speed estimator table that uses g'box ratio, diff ratio, & wheel/tyre circumference. It spat out 204.12km/h @ 7000rpm in 4th. This is using a 255/40/17 tyre size.

nightmare5,

According to the same car speed estimator I mentioned above, the speed in 5th at 5,000rpm will be 193.88km/h. The limiter (usually ~180-190km/h) would be pretty much at those rev's!

6,500rpm in 5th is 252km/h

7,000rpm in 5th (if you have enough power & tarmac to get close to those rev's) is ~271km/h

J,

So you can confirm how accurate my Car Speed Calulator vs. your actual reading is I'll give you the CSC reading for 3,000rpm 4th gear - The CSC suggests that on 225/50/16's you "should" be doing 86.87km/h in 4th @ 3,000rpm.

Let me know what you get mate.

G'day JAY

I might wind the boost up a little cause it's dropping off at the top (see attached) due to the wastegate creeping open at high RPM's.....

More boost will probulary induce more wastegate creep and give same result.

Invest in a HKS electronic boost controller and wastegate actuator, it's one of the best mods to a stock turbo system to improve boost response and will help hold boost higher in the rev range. The only llimiting factor will be the turbo but it should be able to produce 13psi all day safley till redline.

I also agree there's more power to be had with a leaner setting in the top end but this way she'll be safe from detonation.

Cheers

Nick

Yeah good call mate I have lost the plot haven't I :D Doh! I have drag on the brain. Of course aerodynamic drag will not change the result of diff, g'box & tyre size speed calculation. I dunno' what I was thinking about there?

Drag will however make it harder for a car to reach it potential maximum top speed.

More boost will probulary induce more wastegate creep and give same result.

Invest in a HKS electronic boost controller and wastegate actuator,

Yeah, I think your right there.

I was thinking about upgrading the wastegate to a 13psi one (if they come in that rating), but I think you have to pull the turbo out to replace the actualtor :D A bit of a pain in the butt for a small improvement :)

Do you think a EBC (without using a upgraded actuator) would help reduce the boost drop off ?

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...