Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you mean a Maloo? SS = commodore, Maloo is the HSV one with 317kw.

Also, agreed on the xr6T, yeah they are reasonably quick but you can't just wind up the boost and go for it. Injectors run out pretty quickly, and some internals can't really cope with big power. waste of such a monster turbo really

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

comparable to an XR6 or a V6 commonwhore etc........in std trim.

when modded up and pumping out +220rwkw then its comparable to a 2000ish V8 from just about anyone [possibly excepting ferrari Lambo style]

at +250 it is comparable to a 2010 V8 from Falcon or Holden.

It is not really combarable to a GTR, evo or STi etc because they are 4wd, but they do cross paths now and then and it is all a question of driver skill/outright power/and application [drags/circuit/drift etc] as to which one is best.

Your really asking too much - and if you hang around here or search you will find plenty of skyline vs the rest type of threads with countless arguments about who is best and why.

Who really cares, only each individual owner, because on an open road sitting on 100km/h they are all the same........

I have dragged a EA falcon (one of the fastest Falcons_ and a VP Commodore (fastest v6 Commodore) against an unmodified GTS-T and got utterly DESTROYED. Like others said they are comparable to the BA XR6 Turbo or VT-VZ LS1 Commodores, although 9 times out of 10 a VY SS Auto will trounce a manual GTS-T because most people cant drive for shit and Commodores are much easier to drive for average drivers. I'd know i'm an average driver. A current VE SS will beat a perfectly launched stock GTS-T but even a badly launched FG XR6T will easily beat a stock GTS-T.

Edited by FrangaR33
but the system has a pressure sensor on it and when a certain pressure is reached the system fails and A-LSD gives up (light on the dash) this means it wont ever run the pump again by itself until you reboot the car. driving with the pump running non-stop is Ok and no major issues that i've seen, but on my car it still single span even with pump %100 running. it seems to require a proper bleed and check of the system regulary to make it work. when you do that, it works awesome

How long does it take for the pressure to build up to that error point with the ALSD running at 100%?

Yeah I try and bleed mine every few months nowadays, it's probably my tyres that are letting me down now.

It's a hard comparison - larger engine capacity will always have the advantage for "easy" power regarless if n/a or turbo.....

By "easy" power - I mean, any mods you make to a larger capacity engine will see more gains.

PM-R33 if you hard run the pump for about 5 seconds it will fail as it must have a pressure trigger

i can run the pump for 2 seoncds, turn it off, repeat and do this continously and its fine

its only when you leave it on for about 5 seconds that it has a hissy fit

you could hook up a system to make it run the pump for 2 seconds, turn off, 2 sec, off and repeat for ever and it would probably be fine

PM-R33 if you hard run the pump for about 5 seconds it will fail as it must have a pressure trigger

i can run the pump for 2 seoncds, turn it off, repeat and do this continously and its fine

its only when you leave it on for about 5 seconds that it has a hissy fit

you could hook up a system to make it run the pump for 2 seconds, turn off, 2 sec, off and repeat for ever and it would probably be fine

Ok cheers Paul I will have to have a play around with the setup once the Vipec comes. I just want that rear diff locking as best as it can and preferably prior to breaking traction.

Edited by PM-R33

it's a normal diff as far as i know

i had diff place pull mine apart as i asked them to dismantle and fix it

and they said there is nothing they could fix (ie it wasnt broken)

they said they could put a new kaz centre in it no problems, but at 1200 no thanks

racepace have said they can shim it but in the vspec diff there is very limited room

not sure but maybe he (racepace) has shimmed vspec differs in GTR's before (not GTST)

as they do tons of track GTRs and no doubt a lot of them would be vspec's with possibly std diff's

yeah i can run my pump all day and night

it still doesnt guarantee lock

i think the issue is air in the lines or bleeding issue

if i do the bike pump trick as noel said it seems to clear out the demons

and when it locks (i test it in the wet sometimes) the diff is amazing

if you could rig up a way to auto bleed that would be ok

FYI i've ran against a 317 UTE on a private road upto 180km/h and neither of us could pull away

pretty sure it was a SS R8 Ute new model

Lots of private roads in Oz, RTA hardly have anything to do these days.........

And OP, see what I mean about opinions being everywhere, some say you can and others say you cannot do blah blah, driver car conditions nerve situation all give different results

Bring on the STIG

A 250rwkw Skyline will flog a standard XR6T (my mate has a sedan), hell my mates standard turbo Supra pulls away from it. I've raced a 300+rwkw BA XR6T sedan and it was fairly even. They really aren't as fast as people make them out to be, they are fairly heavy and the utes have worse traction problems than Skylines have. But yeah, they do make good power very, very easily. But what do you expect from a 4L GT35?

That's one thing I really want to do to my car over the next few years is to setup up the suspension/tyre/diff combination for a hell of a lot more traction as to me this is the Achilles Heel to most GTSTs with power.

as it should ba xr6t has 180rwkw stock and like people said massive diff gears and heavy my mates running 360rwkw good for mid 11's with just the engine stuff done auto, non slicks tyres. no other mods basically( other than engine) so yes they are as fast as people say they are hes curently beating 450rwkw s/c vx clubby

if you have been in an areoplan then you have been in a 350rwkw+ xr6t they have something like 1200nm of torque

Also, agreed on the xr6T, yeah they are reasonably quick but you can't just wind up the boost and go for it. Injectors run out pretty quickly, and some internals can't really cope with big power. waste of such a monster turbo really

It depends on which model XR6T, the new XR6Ts are making 240-260rwkw standard! Injectors and a tune are not exactly the hardest modification. The engine internals have been fine since the first model or two.

Better then a skyline that you are forced to change/hi flow the turbo to get any serious power! Brings in all sorts of legal issues etc.

ages ago at a dyno day we dynoed a brand new bog stock XR6T ute mark II or series II which ever it was and it made 209rwkw

6 speed manual turbo ute

it would have been about 4/5 years ago now

Yup that would be about right. BA's were roughly 180, BFs around 200-220, but the FGs I have seen are around 240-260rwkw.

Yup that would be about right. BA's were roughly 180, BFs around 200-220, but the FGs I have seen are around 240-260rwkw.

Exactly. And with their terrible depreciation they'll be worth $20k in 5 years and an absolute bargain family car with some fun for Daddy. :-P

My boss has a stock RS4 stagea and raced a XR6 around windy roads. He recons it would creep on him on the straights but it was no match for his four wheel drive around the bends. He didn't know what year it was but he thought it was a new one

And that is a 1620kg wagon with and RB25Det in it LOL. My gtst is quicker than it being 200kg lighter.

Then again the XR6 may not have been trying too hard lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...