Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh i thought you'd change the coilpacks already....

the #1 place to check first is coilpacks. Get splitfires if you need to change them.

Does the car sound audible different when you hit the flat spot? any engine check lights come on?

OK -

CAR IS STOCK - Only pod and exhaust put on, No coil packs nothing>

Now my mate said all his skylines he brought has done the same thing,

APPARENTLY spit fire coil packs are the answer.

It has nothing to do with timing belt as the belt had just been replaced 4 days ago. and major engien service.

No engien lights are coming on.

When it hits second stage boost, the rpm tacho goes mental. ( showing mis fireing ) this i belive is due to SHIT COIL PACKS ( standerd)

I am buying spit fire ones to solve the whole problem.

Hope it works.

I don't think you understand, it could have everything to do with the timing belt being changed if they've skipped a tooth during installation.

Get them to check that first. The try the other suggestions if that fails. Generally if you start having issues after you've just replaced a part the best place to start is looking at the part you just replaced.

You didn't say anything about misfiring before...where was that gem of a symptom when we needed it :(

so n that case do u think it may be coil packs? ive been advised by a mate who had very simalar happen to him on both his gtst and his new gtr he said he just changed coild packs straight up and works a treat now.

whilst it's a very good idea to check the timing, there probably isn't any harm in changing the stock coilpacks anyway. Yes some peoples last, but you'll probably need them sooner or later anyway.

Coy

Ill

Paks.

The taco jumping around is a dead give away.

Get yourself some new coil packs. JJR (Just Jap Racing) coil packs are about $100 cheaper than Splitfires and have had many good reports. JJR are traders here - find them int he Classifieds section.

Yeah if you can afford to do so, change the coil packs regardless of what this issue is...they fault down the track even if they aren't responsible for this. But I suspect they are...

You have a choice of:

Splitfires

Yellow Jackets

Just Jap Racing

There's a few other brands floating around too but the above have been used pretty widely on here with good results.

Make sure they hooked up the cooler piping tight aswell, as a leak will make it run rich and miss if they touched it. Also check turb boost line, Map sensor line and bov line.

Does it miss under non boost accel to the redline?

im looking at used spit fires or brand new yellow jackets.

um i donno it idles funny, then when boost kicks in it cuts out after 4500prms, then run like ass untill 6000rom and then boost kicks back in again?....

i donno i havent even taken the car in to get checked up it so ill figure it out.

its got stock cooler piping but i guess i shall check all hose clamps after i get my coils.

All vaccume lines and press lines including BOV seem to b in good condition and all conected properly.

It just feels like the engien is not fireing properly. or not breathing properly.

think ill get coils done then timeing re done and go from there, im prety sure it should solve the problem.

if your coilpacks are shagged, they are shagged all the time on boost

ie they dont magically work between 4500rpm and 6000rpm and then misfire city

when coilpacks are shagged it will misfire its ass off from like 3000rpm to redline (any amount of decent boost)

given you mention the typical flat spot / cut range for R&R id say check the basics

given you said youve only just had the car

it could be

a) it started since the service / timing belt,

or b) its always been shagged

so check the basics, check it with a timing light at idle, check to make sure your base timing is correct

reset the stock ecu, perform a stock ecu diag if you can with consult to check for any dead sensors or unplugged sensors

best thing is just to check in with a reputable workshop asap - patto i assume is patterson river, so take your pick of say Chasers east, RE Customs etc.... I'd def go to Status but they won't be back until 30th August, and i take it you'd probably want it sorted by then.

and IF you do need coilpacks, DON'T muck around with the other brands - just get splitfires.

and IF you do need coilpacks, DON'T muck around with the other brands - just get splitfires.

Why do you keep saying this? Have you had a bad experience with other brands?

Yeah I gotta ask, do you work for splirfire lol? They aren't the only ones who know how to make coil packs :nyaanyaa:

All coil pack brands (including splitfire) have had warranty issues, and from what I've seen replaced them for the customer without hassle. YJs saved me and a few mates $200...

:nyaanyaa:*************PROBLEM FIXED PEOPLE!!************* :P

Issue; AFM, Was corrupt. Replaced with new one- CAR RUNS PERFECT>

Thankyou all for ur suggestions. In future any further problems i know where to start looking!

:P*************PROBLEM FIXED PEOPLE!!************* :D

Issue; AFM, Was corrupt. Replaced with new one- CAR RUNS PERFECT>

Thankyou all for ur suggestions. In future any further problems i know where to start looking!

Damn it!

Sounded like coilpacks to me :nyaanyaa:

Glad you got it solvered :D

Yeah I gotta ask, do you work for splirfire lol? They aren't the only ones who know how to make coil packs :D

All coil pack brands (including splitfire) have had warranty issues, and from what I've seen replaced them for the customer without hassle. YJs saved me and a few mates $200...

Exactly, I am using Branz coilpacks they work great, about 15 months of use thus far no issues with 270rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...