Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, just pulled my turbos off (no jokes pls!!!).. There pretty laggy, I got them with my 26, stated as having STD turbos on it.. so a bit of a win I guess..

CHRA has 14411-06U00, which is apparently r32 gismo turbo's, thus explaining why they're laggy...!

Now the thing I don't understand is the nismo's are meant to have a 0.42 compressor, but these are 0.6 like on the GT/le mans nismo's, but the CHRA doesn't show 14411-rs581 as per the lemans turbos.

Confused.. Any help appreciated, would also like to know their max power and efficiency range.

Also, have stock bottom end, nismo 555cc's, microtech, walbro, etc.. If that helps

Thx, Chris.

Edited by kristafa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330745-can-you-name-these-turbos/
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, unfortunately those are the main sources of my confusion.. Why does that chart say my turbos should be .42 compressor when mine are .60?

The gtr.co.uk site doesn't answer that guys first question, ie what are they.

am I just to assume mine are gismo GT/Lemans turbos even tho it doesn't have rs581 on the CHRA?

also before anyone gets in with "these are poor design, 15 years old, bush bearing, etc" I know already, but unfortunately for the old RB, this is what she's stuck with for now haha...!

cheers paul - i've been running these turbos for 6 months on 12psi thinking they're stockies and that my exhaust was restrictive hence the laggyness.. good to know i can start to lean on them a little and start making up for that lag in topend power..

check my dyno sheet on the RB26 upgraded turbo thread - shows power vs RPM

EDIT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5112467

i have a less than impressive dump pipe setup which will be sorted before turbos are reinstalled, and wind the boost up to 17 pound or so with the new EBC there should be things happening a little earlier in the rev range.

Edited by kristafa

I've used this link before http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

But it's always been strange to me that all three of the various R34 N1 Turbos only produce 500ps as it says on the chart, I had always thought that there was a turbo that was bigger in the r34 n1 range, around the 600ps mark ?

you mean Nismo R1.. similar to a 34 N1 but flow more i guess:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISMO-R1-560HP-BALL...=item2eaec141fd

COMPRESSOR:

- HOUSING: T3 (A/R 0.42)

- WHEEL: T3 (TRIM 55)

BEARING: BALL BEARING

TURBINE:

- HOUSING (NIJIREST): T25 (A/R 0.64)

- WHEEL (INCONEL): GT25 (TRIM 62)

ACTUATOR: REINFORCED SPRING, ADJUSTABLE ROD

MAX. EFFICIENCY: 73%

MAX. AIR PRESSURE RATIO (AT BOOST PRESSURE): 103% (1.35KG/CM2)

DESIGNED OUTPUT: 280PS(X2)

sell them (someone will buy them for sure) and get a pair of brand new ball bearing top notch GT-SS's or garrett equivs

the response you gain will far out weigh the current lag and lag penalty you have. specially on a bog stock 26

wow

ive checked your graph, that is horrible

bog stock BCNR33 on the graph below yours

looks to make its peak boost and torque spike at 113km/h around 4000rpm

vs your stock Nismo R1 or whatever they are which make peak around 5200rpm

thats horrible!!!

does your car have non 4.11 diff gears also ?

check my dyno sheet on the RB26 upgraded turbo thread - shows power vs RPM

EDIT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5112467

i have a less than impressive dump pipe setup which will be sorted before turbos are reinstalled, and wind the boost up to 17 pound or so with the new EBC there should be things happening a little earlier in the rev range.

i dont think turning the boost up will help response

but freeing up the exhaust is always a good thing

but again i dont think it will shift the power band that much

your main issue is the housings needs lots of flow to wake up

you need aggressive tune, jungle juice, cam gears, aggressive tune and a good tune

if your timing and tune is anything other than spot on, youll pay for the penalty in poor response as your rears as much larger than stock

i reckon a changeover price to GT-SS or the garrett equivs (as per sig) shouldn't be too bad changeover price

you could probably keep the std dumps and still change the turbo's and come out on top light years ahead (in response)

ie

the change of turbochargers will yield a better response improvement vs changing dumps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear...   Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!
    • ECUMaster is an Australian company from memory, been around a while, and seem to actually play really well on more unique engine setups. Seems to be more of them being used in the states, and they seem to support more cylinders than most others.   My opinion on stock ECU/Nistune with he AFM, is you can tune around the issue of stalling. It's still a bit of a band-aid, and not the most perfect smoothest setup, but it can make it drive able and not an absolute PITA. But you're still compromising. A vent to atmosphere BOV has the same issue as no BOV with regards to the AFM. Both make the ECU think more air is entering the engine than there really is. And I can't find any hard science/decent evidence that supports the claims all the "you MUST run a BOV of some sort of you'll blow the turbo up". About the only one some people can give of why is "lag between gear shifts", and that is only an issue when your boost source for the waste gate is pre throttle body. I ran my boost source for the TD07S off the inlet manifold. Didn't have weird boost spiking issues, didn't have boost control issues, and on a gear shift the wastegate slammed shut, which meant all exhaust gases would be keeping it going round and round and not waiting for the wastegate to shut again when I stepped off the clutch and back on the loud pedal. It came back on boost in the next gear pretty much instantly.   ECU / tune / BOV choice I think really comes down to a lot more factors than just what you've stated. And personally, especially for daily driving, recirc setup for the BOV, or no BOV. I dislike the really loud BOV when everyone is taking off from the lights etc.
    • Hey guys, as the title reads I would like the buy a S1 GTT OEM lip for my skyline. Located in Australia. Happy to drive to pick it up (interstate I don't mind)
    • All motors are consumables. This thing costs $250,000-500,000 and makes 640hp/430 KW, naturally asipirated. It has a competitive advantage in being more reliable than other cars it competes against. They rate these engines in hours before rebuilds. Are you going to out-engineer half million GT3 car manufacturers in a garage? People really need to be honest with what they are going to do, and remember that 99.9% of the people on the internet are not honest with how they use their car and what it holds up to and how much power it makes and how easy/hard it was. Anyone worrying about the block limit of anything is the kind of person that will be unable to do a single track day, for example, perhaps not even a single session. Build the kind of car you would want to have if you could never tell a single soul about it and nobody would ever know.
    • For anyone who finds this via a search  An s14 alternator connector and Silvia Fusebox/350z headlight connector can be used. Get the non pigtail version of the alternator connector so you can use 12 gauge wire for the pump.    I am using  https://ebay.us/m/ToEEmM And https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-xenonhid-headlight-connector-w-pigtails-8-pin-male-nissan-350z-03-08-z33-or-jdm-fusebox-for-silvia-s14-czp-26060-m-8pin_p_19166.php    
×
×
  • Create New...