Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey have my second defect inspection tomorrow not sure if i will pass,

not too long ago purchased a 5" HKS hi power catback exhaust system for a series 2 R33 gts-25t went straight in un restricted and @ 3,300 rpm it read at 97db but on the side i was only revving it roughly at 3k had a 1-2mm peice of sheet metal with a 30mm hole or so drilled into it so it can restrict the flow... now the exhaust seems a bit loud and it has to be 90db at 3,300rpm any ideas on a quick silence fix i been told to chuck a piece of chicken wire inside?

any ideas much appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330757-defect-inspection-tomorrow/
Share on other sites

unfortunately not =[ dont know anyone with a import or a silencer to fit the huge exhaust the restrictor has quietened it down a bit but i dont think enough need a kinda quick fix as its booked in for 3:30 tomorrow any other ideas sorry for the trouble...

cheers chris

unfortunately that's not another option, purchased the car with a aftermarket exhaust which was sold some time ago and looking for a quick fix... is there something i might be able to insert into the muffler or something along the lines?

you can try creating a small black hole in the tip of your exhaust Im fairly sure I remember reading that nothing escapes a black hole not even sound....

Other than that, no, not on this short notice...

get a steel plate like you have. instead of drilling one 30mm hole drill a few little holes to restrict it heaps. then when ya done take it out :nyaanyaa:

make them about 4mm or 5mm holes and dont do too many, but do enough so it doenst stuff ya enigine

Edited by Nackerz
get a steel plate like you have. instead of drilling one 30mm hole drill a few little holes to restrict it heaps. then when ya done take it out :nyaanyaa:

make them about 4mm or 5mm holes and dont do too many, but do enough so it doenst stuff ya enigine

going to get it done now thankyou soo much

A heap of rolled up chicken wire does the job, not just sitting there lol

The steel plate doesnt just sit there. You make it the same size and shape as the flange on the rear of the cat. Drill your holes through it where it bolts together, and drill some holes through it where the exhaust gasses can flow through :D

not having a go at you, just saying thats how its done.

The steel plate doesnt just sit there. You make it the same size and shape as the flange on the rear of the cat. Drill your holes through it where it bolts together, and drill some holes through it where the exhaust gasses can flow through :)

not having a go at you, just saying thats how its done.

Oh nah sorry mate, I was replying to Security, not contradicting you again :D your idea should be spot on too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...