Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, went bush bashing with my car the other weekend, and just gravel road and wet stuff everywhere, i did a bit of powersliding and hard accelerating, but got nothing. just dead mind you it goes to 50kg/m that is close to 500nm from memory. thats alot of front tourque. but still, all in all, i got nothing.

hmm, then you should at least take the guages out and check the plug on the rear of the unit.

There is a sticky thread on how to get at the stereo which is pretty much the same thing you need to do.

I must owe you 10c now. Usually these threads have happy endings when they are given some stick in the wet or on gravel.

dammit, lol, i forgot to say ive done that already, all plugs are set etc. i checked them when i replaced my stereo. and at the same time my climate control lights stopped working, so 2 things in my car aint working, climate control lights and my gauge.

anyone know where the sensor is???

or do the r33/4 have the same gauge? my guess it would be for rear tho.

I would change the globes of the climate control. you will probably find that the gauge will start working. I've had it where my rear lights and dash lights were not working. replaced everything but nothing changed. Noticed that one of the globes on my gauge cluster was a little dimmer then the rest. replaced it and tah dah, all came good. very annoying.

oh . dam it o cant remove it . um random . do you know it your car is engaging 4wd ? like fangin it on gravel or get someone to look while you give it a launch . my gauge works everytime i expect it to . about 10% when drivin up a hill and up to 50 doih skids on wet grass. it your car a 1999-2000 series 2 factory manual fr four s or a 260rs ?

none of the others have the gauge and a gtr gauge cluster wont work

does yours have front torque volts and boost from left to right

or something with oil temp init?

I just bought an m35 and mine does seem to be faulty aswell. I works when I punched it up a steep hill in the wet the other night. But unlike other cars I test drove I they would go up a little with some foot planting. Mine just sits on zero all the time..

Is this normal??

I will check the connections and get back to u guys as my boost guage isn't working all the time either..

ok, finally got it working, took the rear out and re-inserted and cleaned out the connectors, now it will jump a little bit on uphills, and it will reach about 20kg-m when i rev at about 4k-rpm and just release the clutch, but it does have a kind of lag effect, i finished accelerating and just let go, the needle still jumps a bit but then slows down. haha. but i guess being a rwd based system with a front added to it, i dont see much transfer going to the front to begin with.

mine is a factory stock standard 2001 rs4 manual, so S or V, i forgot. gauges go from torque- volt- boost.

is facotry boost only 7psi at max???

mine reaches that, but when it gets to it then just cuts out.

i hope your not assuming the factory gauge is in psi ??

7 on that gauge is about 14 psi which is also boost cut level

it is full rear wheel drive untill you break the rears loose . or cornering and shit

Stock RB25DET based cars usually make 125rwkw (+/- 5kw) in stock form at the wheels vs 189kw factory output allowing some loss for age.

Stock RB25DET neo make around 140rwkw with the same things in play.

On a dyno there should be almost no drive to the front wheels with ATESSA unless there is wheelspin so the figures are almost always the same but if you want to allow for some front wheel losses then take away about 10kw.

Using percentage loss can be a slippery slope but is used by some motor engineers, in practice losses are not static but close enough for most of us in streetable cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...