Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Recently had my turbo highflowed via hypergear n the responce is awsome,

he did advise to change the standard intake pipe which is rubber to metal (and larger diameter)

has anyone done this? and could they point me in the right direction about where to buy one?

any help would be great,

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332421-intake-pipe-from-pod-turbo/
Share on other sites

be careful if you have a nice shiny straight peiece of metal as the intake ducting

the standard intake pipe has accordian style bends in it to avoid afm signal reversion

if you put in a nice perfect straight piece of metal it will cause reversion of the AFm signal and make the car run like ass

good advice, i was planning on moving the AFM to the cold side of the cooler piping, just b4 the blowoff valve

so pretty much, pod-> pipe-> turbo

guess size dnt matter cos i'll have to use some silicon hose to narrow it down into the turbo?

cheers all

just keep the standard intake pipe with the afm in the standard position. if it sucks closed then put a small piece of exhaust pipe in the middle of it, theres a guide on here.

you do not need a bigger intake pipe with a highflow

nothing at all dodgy about it. you cut the stocker pipe, put an offcut of exhaust pipe in there and hose clamp both parts of the intake pipe to it.

intake pipe wont change what airflow the afm maxxes out at, once again stocker would actually be better than a metal pipe as it has the ribs in it to stop any reversion

yer i have a metal intake pipe and also dont have any issues but i made sure it was nice and long with a decent bend in it. but the only reason i made one was to suit the 4" intake on my turbo. if you have a small turbo inlet theres no reason to use a metal pipe

Get a metal intake pipe and relocate AFM and BOV. If you are concert about cop problems dyno tune your car with 3inch metal pipe and pod before putting the REV210 metal sleeved stock intake pipe back on. Stao explained side affects of it into detail with dynosheet comparasm and users comment in his tread as well as installation notes on AFM and BOV relocation. Have a read in this thread. from memory its in page 39 & 43.

Edited by kwickr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 🤣, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
    • This is mine, works a treat for the cars, suction is good, I use the Bissell clean and protect stuff I have found giving it a good spray and light scrub with the soft brush on the head of the nossle for carpet, and a rub with a microfibre for cloth seats and cloth door trims, prior to another quick spray before vacuuming it up works the best @GTSBoy You would surprised on what it gets out of carpet and seats that actually "look" clean, I recommend that you test drive yours when you have a little time to kill, then post pics of the muddy looking water that I believe you will find
×
×
  • Create New...