Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

I'm not sure draining your catch cans oil back into the engine straight on top of your cams is a good idea,,,rarely have I ever seen clean oil come out of them. They usually have oil,,,water and crud.

Cheers

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-5484530
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

you want give the engine as much chance 2 keep the oil in it. so by using gravity will help. good idea. just remember you should have a 1 way value between your can and your turbo 2 prevent turbo sucking the oil Out of the can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-5601816
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

bad setup. imo.

self draining should have an oil/air seperator that only allows heavy oil to pass back in to the SUMP not the head...

The breather should always be higher than the drain. your drain is higher. Plus your drain goes straight to the intake and the way it's designed pure oil could go that way. not just gasses.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-5696338
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

you want give the engine as much chance 2 keep the oil in it. so by using gravity will help. good idea. just remember you should have a 1 way value between your can and your turbo 2 prevent turbo sucking the oil Out of the can.

ah the purpose of a catch can is to "catch" and then hold oil, moisture and whatever is pushed out of the rocker covers in crankcase ventilation it has to either vent to atmosphere or to the intake constantly so you dont get a rise in crankcase pressure and blow your turbo or cam cover seals, or any other seals for that matter... a one way valve in the hose to the intake pipe pressurise the crank case as you are sealing the motor once the valve is sucked closed by the vacume in the intake pipe.. is not pvc...pcv is under pressure not vacume so it needs to have one way valve or motor will pressurise even more...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-5712070
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Fabrication looks OK the physics side may need some work, don't worry about the idiots and their ha ha posts, the only thing they work on is their own dicks.

Search for some more engine bay photos and threads on oil control.

Keep it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-6070946
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I used one of these cans on my gtr, the problem that ur friends on here have pointed out is that it can still get oil back into the inlet. I ran this as an overflow tank, and unless ur tank is getting full after every drive to the shops and back it should be fine, they work very well. I ended up running this and then to a vented can to the side, then back to the inlet, if u are running it back to ur inlet be sure to put ur return on a 45degree angle to create a negative pressure in the pipe. anything more and it will not be as effective.

Good job on the welding any way, I hope u made it with baffles.

GL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-6299048
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Cool air and some extra surface area inside will help condense more of the crud.

Put it near the front, and have baffles inside.

I wouldnt want the crud in mine getting back into the motor.

Like Paul said,

Run the breather system as usual with the pcv and have the can in the line that goes to the air intake before the turbo.

So all you are doing is condensing the crappy oil vapour and stopping most of it from going into the intake and being burned.

I read somewhere this vapour effectively lowers your octane level. Bad if you run high boost n stuff.

post-89755-0-22543300-1343903225_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-6471474
Share on other sites

just out of interest why have you plumbed back into the intake facing away from the turbo? i always though the intention was to have it facing towards to the turbo similar to how you should plumb a bov return. i know i might not be correct, but i think it may cause pressure issues. maybe if someone like scotty see's this he might know more, but he has other threads about intake pipe plumbing, seeing as how he makes them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-6471617
Share on other sites

if you have a properly baffled catch can then there shouldnt be much going into the intake pipe. mine points towards the turbo (using standard rubber intake pipe) and i havent seen any oil/dirt etc in the pipe. the catch can has a little bit of oil in the bottom, and due to the proper mesh baffles id like to think theres not much oil vapour making it to turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332885-r33-catch-can/#findComment-6473659
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...