Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

John - Its her car, I hijacked it, she can drive it anytime, but its not same adrenalin rush as her car.

I wanted to do circuit, but didn't have the heart to tarnish the GTR with a roll cage (yes, she is still special)

Price was okay, but the more I pondered the more the price went up (thanks to other offers that came in, b@stards :yes:)

specs?

do you know if its a close ratio box or just a stronger gearset?

This is from his ad - John Bozman was the driver

Engine

RB26DETT

Estimated Power

500hpATW (@20psi)

Approx Weight

1300kg

Race Results

2003 Runner-up Combined NSW Touring Car Championship

2005 NSW Combined Touring Champion

2006 Underwent Rebuild for Improved Production

2007 Podium Finisher in NSW Championship

2nd in Class (6th Outright) Aust Nat IPRA Championship

Circuit Times

The times below are ex IPRA racing days (Car was running restrictors with a lot less power & less rubber)

1:10.9 Morgan Park 2007

1:45.0 Eastern Creek 2007

1:07.4 Wakefield Park 2007

1:18.7 Oran Park 2007

Engine Modifications

C&B Prepared N1-Block (Nitrited)

Car has recently undergone some major upgrades @ Godzilla Motorsport

Engine Rebuilt ( New Pistons, Rings & Bearings) Only 2 Test Days since

Balanced and Nitrited Crankshaft

N1 Oil-pump

N1 Water-pump

Tomeii Valve Springs & Bronze Guides

Tomeii Camshafts Stage 1 260

Tomeii Adjustable Cam Gears

Tomeii Main & Head Studs

CC'ed Chambers and Matchported

Tomeii Metal Head gasket Kit

ATI 1000hp Balancer

ABE Built Engine

CP Forged Pistons 0.5mm over, Comp 9.5:1

ARGO Con Rods

ACL Race Bearings

ARP Stud Kit

PSI Larger Race Sump with Baffles

Fuel & Induction System

PSI 60L Custom AlloyFuel tank

Twin SX In-line Fuel Filters

Twin Carter Lift Pumps

PSI Custom Swirl Pot

Twin Bosch 044 Fuel Pumps

Turbo Smart 1200hp Fuel Pressure Regulator

PSI ¾"Alloy Performance Fuel Rail

Dynamic Injectors 1000cc Injectors

Garret -5 Turbos

Tomeii Dump Pipes

TRUST High-flow Intercooler

HKS Intercooler Pipes & Blow-off Valve

Electronics

ECM - MOTEC 800

Twin Bosch Ignition Modules

Spitfire HP Coil Packs

Full Custom Wiring Loom (Aircraft Wiring & Deutsch Plugs)

Suspension & Brake

Noltec Custom Coil-over Shocks

Eibach Springs

AP Racing 6 Piston Calipers @ Fr

Brembo 2 Piston Calipers @ Rr

DBA 2 piece, Alloy-Hat on 352mm Rotors

Custom Pedal Ratio for non-boosted brakes (No ABS)

Adjustable Bias Valve

Driveline

OS Geiken 5 speed box

HD Exedy single-plate Clutch

Quaiffe Front LSD 3.9

Cusco Rear LSD 3.9

Custom Single Tailshaft

Chrome-molly Rear-steer Lock System

Chassis Modifications

BOND Custom Multi-point Roll Cage

Fully Seam-welded Body

Nismo Front Cross-brace

Exterior Modifications

Custom Front Bar & Spoiler

Fiberglass Rear Wing

Trust Front Pipe

Custom Exhaust – Nascar Type Side Pipe (Gonzo)

Wheels & Tyres

Rota Grid 18x10 Wheels

Kumho V70A Semi Slicks

Interior

Cobra Evolution Seat

Sparco 6 Point Harness 3"

Momo Sreering Wheel with quick-release Boss Kit

Custom Carbon Dash & Trim

Custom Switch -box

Custom Door Trims to fit Roll-cage

MOTEC SDL Dash

Looks like it is going to be a quick car, fast enough to worry michele?

Im very worried, but for different reasons, the selfish side of me is terrified of losing my pit crew :thanks: and I don't think I will make a good pitb!tch.

You all aren't going to believe this

The dealer may not follow through with the deal even though we have paid in full, he now wants more money (after the sale)

see more http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...78#entry5401378

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...