Jump to content
SAU Community

Swapping R32 Gtr Driveline Into Stagea

Rowdyr32

By Rowdyr32,
in Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

I've been doing a bit of reading and the swap seems pretty simple to put my RB26 into a Stagea. I did a RB26 conversion into my GTST in my carport about 8 years ago with little to no info in a few weeks but that eneded up being almost a straight swap.

I found a link to the gearbox swap a bloke has done

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...in-t331327.html

I guess the engine will bolt straight in using the stagea mounts and R33 gtr radiator hoses. Not sure on the loom situation but cannot be very hard to diagnose. Theres only a few wires there. Not sure which diff ratio I'll use yet.

The other problems are to do with wheels and brakes.

Will I manage to get my 18x10+12mm P1 QF rims to fit. I don't mind flaring the guards even if it is a fair amount.

Couldn't find any info relating to the biggest rims/offsets you can fit under a Stag.

Just read/saw that 18x10 +22 fit but stick out a bit.

I also have some Circlar 18x9.5 +22/18? pair and can get some matching in 18x9.5 +38. Also have some 25mm spacers. Might be a better option and everybody won't love them so I'd feel safer. Alway get comments at the lights about the QF's.

Do R32 gtr brakes only fit on a Series 1? What is the difference? If it only hole dia thats not a prob.

Are the shocks the same as R33 in the front. I can then fit my 32 GTR front shocks straight in and then modify the R32 GTR rear shocks to extend to the same length as the R33. Are rear 33 shocks the same length between gtst/gtr?

Are stagea exhaust specific or could I mod a R33 or R32 on easily. I've made full exhausts before so if its just a cut and shut I'll use my 3.5. Fairly quiet.

Is there any particular model to focus on buying to make this conversion easier.

Hoping to swap into the Stag

Forged piston RB26 with -5's with PFC etc. Making just under 300rwkw and only needs inj now for 350+

OS giken triple plate clutch and manual box

A/M diff centre. Very tight

100mm intercooler

Oil cooler

Turbo back 3inch dumps merged into 3.5 exhaust

324mm slotted rotors and GTR calipers with braided lines

Revalved Bilstiens for track work.

For the price of selling the GTR shell and all the bit I don't need plus 2 other cars I own I should be able to do this without it really costing me anything, I get my yard back plus a nice car. All wins

If anybody has any links or info it would be really appriciated or know of anybody with nice cars for sale upto/around 10k.

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Should be pretty straightforward. Put a 33GTR box in my S1 and mounts fit and resused auto driveshaft no problem. Probably need GTR ecu and loom. Brakes should fit but will probably need to push guards out for 18 x 10 rims.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
i have 18 by 10 with +15 offset of my stagea with them still inside the guards

Auto or Manual stagea?

Auto has 50mm wider rear track (cradle) than a manual

Series 1 or 2, big debat which is better

$10K bugdet will find a nice series 1, or cheap series 2

Series 1 has R33 motor, std auto. not as nice interior, could swap to a series 2 if wanted. 12mm front brake bolts

Series 2 has neo motor, worth more, better looking interior, tiptronic auto, 14mm front brake bolts, different front end look, normally factory side skirts and rear wing, 1-3 years newer.

Couple of cheap series 1's on ebay from $6500

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted (edited)
Def would have been using the gtr loom and pfc. Makes life nice and easy.

Gareth, dropping running gear into a cheap Stagea is straight forward. Same issues with dropping into a GTSt regarding pipwork and the added issue of converting to manual. Seems straight forward enough though. No need to cut holes in the firewall, etc. It all bolts over.

wait for mikes arrival re:wheels

Mike is a dirty wheel whore :bunny:

i have 18 by 10 with +15 offset of my stagea with them still inside the guards

That will either be on a RS4 S or an Autech. I run 18 x 9.5 +22's and in the rear of my auto, they don't fit unless you run about 3 degrees of neg camber.

P5261336-1.jpg

Auto or Manual stagea?

Auto has 50mm wider rear track (cradle) than a manual

Series 1 or 2, big debat which is better

$10K bugdet will find a nice series 1, or cheap series 2

Series 1 has R33 motor, std auto. not as nice interior, could swap to a series 2 if wanted. 12mm front brake bolts

Series 2 has neo motor, worth more, better looking interior, tiptronic auto, 14mm front brake bolts, different front end look, normally factory side skirts and rear wing, 1-3 years newer.

Couple of cheap series 1's on ebay from $6500

Darren is on the money with the rear cradles. You can bolt in a cradle from a S14/GTR/etc, with the best bet going for an Aus S14/15 rear end as they don't have Hicas.

To start off with, I didn't really like the S2's however, the front end grew on me and I ended up buying one. For a stocker that you don't intend on buggerising around with or you want to keep it close to stock (ie, boost, turbo, cooler, etc) the S2 is a winner.

Neo motor, tiptronic, if you're lucky to find one like mine, it'll have leather/electric/heated seats, touchscreen navi/climate control etc.

Considering you want to make a monster out of a Volvo Hurse, then I would go for an S1. They are cheaper to buy, parts are cheaper than S2 parts (panels, trims, etc) and you'll be wanting to cut it up anyways.

I found Chris and Min's Stag for around $6800-ish 3 years ago. Something like that now would probably go for around 5k. Leaves 5k to spend on go fast bits if your budget is 10k.

I found mine at auction and got Aaron to import it, etc and complied and on the road it cost me around $13,000. This is what it looked like at auction.

2155Small689Small241.jpg

Edited by SABBAi
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Interesting regarding the cradle Scott. It would be good to just bolt in what I have becuase it already has a a/m diff centre, cusco adj upper arms, braided lines with slotted rotors and whiteline swaybar. I'm guessing the rear strut towers are higher than in a r32?

I've noticed a few cheap stagea's out here but there aren't to many for sale atm. Might just hang out and wait for a bit. If I can grab one for about 5 that would suit me fine.

Thanks for the help boys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
Interesting regarding the cradle Scott. It would be good to just bolt in what I have becuase it already has a a/m diff centre, cusco adj upper arms, braided lines with slotted rotors and whiteline swaybar. I'm guessing the rear strut towers are higher than in a r32?

If you intend to use the r32 cradle you will need to fit offset bushes as the 4 mounting stud/bolts in the car different centres.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Darrel
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Darrel · Posted

      @Butters I can't tell you why but the bigger HKS step 2 cams improved low and mid end immensely. Turbos started spooling about 1k RPM less than before and the idle/vacuum was rock solid, it was an absolute thrill to drive, 3rd gear pulls hit 180kmh where previously only managed 160. Conversely, the milder poncoms in there now have a funky idle making it harder to get off the line, drives poorly in lower revs, laggy and makes less power/torque throughout. Feels better after I swapped the EBC but unless I put it on the Dyno again, I can't say how much better.
    • stasis
      Stagea Suspension

      By stasis · Posted

      Hi Sydney kid   do you still selling spring and blistein shocks for Nissan 260rs? Air any suspension upgrades? Please advice     yudy
    • Butters
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Butters · Posted

      Cams are not needed at this power level, they will create lag. The cam gears are a good idea though.
    • Darrel
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Darrel · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera yeah, I guessed as much, cooler temps, more boost, less knock, more timing, hello power. Unfortunately not quite within reach ATM, could upgrade my whole fuel system to support but still wouldn't have E85 to run it 😂  Anyway, I changed cams again, 260/260 poncam B and everything else the same except an EBC upgrade. Now I must say I was quite disappointed with the result as it was like running stock cams (didn't try to dial them in as they're supposed to be optimum already) but after awhile I suspected my new EBC was underperforming not to mention difficult to use. I recently swapped back my old EBC and it drives much better now, boost comes on sooner, more stable, no spikes etc, feels all quicker and faster than with stock cams. Planning to fiddle with the cam gears and see what happens but maybe skip the Dyno as I intend to revert to the HKS cams cos they really made the car come alive; low and mid end was unbelievable and it just wanted to rev to the moon, finally knew what people were raving about, RB26 really loves revs. Anyway, Dyno 03 is quite disappointing, in Dyno 02 although peak power was less and trailed off at the top, the low and mid end improvement more than made up for it.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Darrel It's so tempting to say e85 is borderline magic. It cools the intake charge, so if you're flirting with the edge of the turbos compressor map it helps dramatically cool down the hot air the turbos are pumping. It is very resistant to detonation so you can crank the timing, I don't really want to say you won't be knock limited anymore.... but you probably wont be knock limited anymore lol. I wouldn't be surprised if you made 20% more power swapping to e85 (provided you have the fuel system to support them, bigger injectors maybe bigger pump etc). 
×
×
  • Create New...