Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There was a ton of research involved in this car. The reason it went to the US is shops in the US are light years ahead of Australia. It was sent to someone that could be trusted to complete work above anyones expectations.

Im not sure why people are saying that anyone can hand over money and have a great car. I would say more than most modified cars here are completed by workshops. some people do work on their own and complete some great work but this is few and far between.

The Australian industy is full of shonks so why not utilise the high skills of overseas companies. I know if i was to do my project over i would have no hesitation sending it to the US. Obviously we do have some great workshops here that will help and i have been fortunate to find a couple of those but the bads ones out weigh the good ones!

For those who havent even looked through the threads corretly before having a jealous sook, look again. This car is finished. it was built over 2 full years in the US. The car is back in Australia and has been driven on the road a lot. Obviously this is not something to go grocery shopping in but lets face it most projects never are.

end rant...

BACK TO TOPIC!

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys if you have nothing nice to say please leave it for yourself. Some of the jealous comments are a bit childish.

Boz read the damn thread lol.

You can quite clearly see the guy now knows a hell of a lot about cars and did all the descisions himself and researched a hell of a lot.

OP, there are LOTS of amazing build threads out there. you just have to search for them.

Oh no doubt. But for an import build nothing comes close to this that I have ever come across. I have read most of the build threads on SAU and while a lot of them are very amazing with my favourite being Tangomatts, the thing is that Supra build thread is just in a whole different ballpark.

For the people that are enjoying the thread, it has been updated on page 39 :D

Edited by PM-R33

I think every one just ment it has been completely built as new with all new parts (hell it probably smells like a new car) So "technically" it's a 2010 model Supra.

Not really sure I understand what you are trying to say there dude, pretty sure I understood your post perfectly and I simply said for you to read the damn thread since you said you hadn't read it.

oh you f**king illiterate douchebags. READ MY POST AGAIN. I did state that I had never read the original thread, I was explaining why people were commenting as they were to the noob.

Doesn't sound that way to me:

it's hella lame to give your car to a shop and just say something like that rather than to at least research what you want out of it, parts to use etc.

btw cbf reading original thread on this car

Which is a stupid thing to say when you have not read the thread, hence why I said:

"Clearly you have not read the thread, otherwise you would see that he DID research everything he wanted and all of the parts to use."

So he did research what he wanted "out of it", "parts to use etc."

Guys if you have nothing nice to say please leave it for yourself. Some of the jealous comments are a bit childish.

Boz read the damn thread lol.

You can quite clearly see the guy now knows a hell of a lot about cars and did all the descisions himself and researched a hell of a lot.

Oh no doubt. But for an import build nothing comes close to this that I have ever come across. I have read most of the build threads on SAU and while a lot of them are very amazing with my favourite being Tangomatts, the thing is that Supra build thread is just in a whole different ballpark.

For the people that are enjoying the thread, it has been updated on page 39 ;)

i was talking about imports, since im really only interested in jap cars.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=374790 - this was an epic build, however it seems most pics are now gone :)

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-...-drift-car.html

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-...sil80-rb30.html

http://www.sillbeer.com/

last but not least, this build. nothing i have found comes close to the amount of effort in the write up. not even a fan of the old skylines but still spent hours reading it all.

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1600

btw cbf reading original thread on this car

:thumbsup:

amazing build. yes money has been thrown at it but i get the feeling that some of the people in here wouldnt be happy unless he had fabricated every single washer and nut by hand.

im wondering about that exhaust manifold, it comes out at 90deg to the block. whats with that?

davids_seq1.jpg

davids_seq15.jpg

You would think he would just buy a brand name exhaust manifold, with all the money spent on the car.

You wouldn't be able to for the given setup.

As to the 90 degree manifold question, I had a long look at that manifold, and I'm no manifold builder but I think it was built that way as it was the only way possible to get enough clearance. It would have been a bitch of a manifold to design and build and I'd hate to think what it alone would be worth with the sequential/quick spool setup.

Edited by PM-R33

The exhaust is part of the sp racing big twin sequential turbo system which can make the car see 6-700nm @ as low as 3000rpm.

It's basically a mental redesigned version of the standard supra set-up! Only downside is that each car is fabricated from scratch so no kits available and that there is a significant amount of pipe work involved.

This car tested it's potential to be installed on a rhd vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...