Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, that is the bits that didn't really come off too well, will be getting some sanding disks onto that before it goes in for the cage :cool:

It will just clog up your sanding disks, use a hairdryer or heat gun and a small scraper. Once you have 99% of it all off use some thinners and wipe down the inside and it will come up a treat.

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It will just clog up your sanding disks, use a hairdryer or heat gun and a small scraper. Once you have 99% of it all off use some thinners and wipe down the inside and it will come up a treat.

Haha, I read this after spending an hour or so clogging up my buffing disk, it just smears the stuff around. I also tried the thinners and it works a treat at cleaning it up. A few more hours with a heat-gun, scraper and thinners should have it looking good ;) Thanks for the advice :)

GO SLOW BITS

Well I finally bit the bullet and bought some bigger, and hopefully better brakes. All the bits arrived this week, but won't get fitted until the car is back from the cage builder, and I have bought some rims to suit, unfortunately the RPF01 Enkei's won't take the bigger rotor/caliper.

The existing brake setup was R33 GTR Brembo's, DBA5000 Rotors, PFC01 Pads, and Earls braided brake lines. Was pretty darn good, especially once I changed to the PFC01's, however I still think with a stronger brake setup that there is another second to be had at the track (Wanneroo).

The new brake setup is the AP 6Pot 355mm rotor, with ProjectMu H18 pads. I got a pretty good deal on all of it, and aslong as is works as well as it looks then I'm sure it will be up to the job. The plan is to try and squeeze these brakes under a 17" rim, which should be possible with a few different rim choices (i.e. LMGT4, TE37's, Buddy Club P1's etc).

PICTURES

It's like Xmas when new Boxes arrive :D

post-1397-1285378900_thumb.jpg

355mm Strap Rotors with Hats

post-1397-1285378907_thumb.jpg

Project Mu H18 Pads

post-1397-1285378931_thumb.jpg

Brake Fluid, Caliper Mounts, Brake Lines etc.

post-1397-1285378938_thumb.jpg

6 Pot Calipers :blink:

post-1397-1285378945_thumb.jpg

Ongoing cleanup of the sound deadening

Right hand side after mineral turps and some scouring

post-1397-1285378952_thumb.jpg

INTERIOR DESIGN

Well I've finally had enough of cleaning sound deadening from the car, it's not perfect but its already consumed more hours than I care to think about. So I went to the local auto-store and bought some Holts Duplicolour in Dark Metallic Grey (as close a match to the factory paint as I could fine), and I started to paint the interior parts which didn't have any factory paint on them. The colour matches well, but the 150g can didn't last too long, so hopefully the paint comes in a bigger size can :happy:

PICTURES

Left unpainted, right painted

post-1397-1285672041_thumb.jpg

GO SLOW BITS

The existing brake setup was R33 GTR Brembo's, DBA5000 Rotors, PFC01 Pads, and Earls braided brake lines. Was pretty darn good, especially once I changed to the PFC01's, however I still think with a stronger brake setup that there is another second to be had at the track (Wanneroo).

The new brake setup is the AP 6Pot 355mm rotor, with ProjectMu H18 pads. I got a pretty good deal on all of it, and aslong as is works as well as it looks then I'm sure it will be up to the job. The plan is to try and squeeze these brakes under a 17" rim, which should be possible with a few different rim choices (i.e. LMGT4, TE37's, Buddy Club P1's etc).

PICTURES

It's like Xmas when new Boxes arrive :D

post-1397-1285378900_thumb.jpg

355mm Strap Rotors with Hats

post-1397-1285378907_thumb.jpg

Project Mu H18 Pads

post-1397-1285378931_thumb.jpg

Brake Fluid, Caliper Mounts, Brake Lines etc.

post-1397-1285378938_thumb.jpg

6 Pot Calipers :O

post-1397-1285378945_thumb.jpg

;):( :( I think that was about the best option if you could pony up the cash. They will last take a punding year after year. :D

Good to hear you like the PFC01 pads too. They are about to release the compund i have been waiting for in a Porsche pad so finally going to get to try them....cant wait

:( :( :D I think that was about the best option if you could pony up the cash. They will last take a punding year after year. :D

Good to hear you like the PFC01 pads too. They are about to release the compund i have been waiting for in a Porsche pad so finally going to get to try them....cant wait

Thanks for the advice on the brakes ;)

The PFC01's are awesome, only reason to try the PMu was simply the price, got two sets for the price of one thanks to there sale :O

Thanks guys :mad:

N/P, I have done a fair bit of wiring on my 32 (have a look in the motorspor section, Dane and I were talking about it and I put a little info up) and Im back in WA so if you get stuck let me know and ill help you out.

Cheers

Ross

N/P, I have done a fair bit of wiring on my 32 (have a look in the motorspor section, Dane and I were talking about it and I put a little info up) and Im back in WA so if you get stuck let me know and ill help you out.

Cheers

Ross

Thanks Ross :down:

  • 3 weeks later...
Quick question about the rocker covers, Paul. Who painted them, and what sort of paint did they use? A mate and I are both getting ours done soon. :no:

Cheers mate.

A guy called Ross painted them (but was many years back, so don't think he still does it), but no idea what type of paint it was to be honest. Checkout some of the stuff that Craved does, will give you some ideas http://www.cravedcoatings.com/gallery/gallery.html

The car is still getting the rollcage installed, hope to pop out there over the weekend to find out how it's progressing.

Me driving this thinking it had to4 when it really had GT3076 = lolz

What actual rwhp have you got with that turbo?? I was under the impression the GT30 series would make about the mid-400's before running out of puff, but I recall you saying it still had around 500. Just interested to know because once I get the 044 installed (only thing stopping the car running more boost) I don't know whether to stay with my GT3076 or get a GT35, not much point getting everything done & re-tuned for an extra 20hp lol

Didn't realise you finally got another sticker, but remembered you saying when it did only then would it become full-on race car. Will be good to see this down at Barbs soon :no:

Me driving this thinking it had to4 when it really had GT3076 = lolz

What actual rwhp have you got with that turbo?? I was under the impression the GT30 series would make about the mid-400's before running out of puff, but I recall you saying it still had around 500. Just interested to know because once I get the 044 installed (only thing stopping the car running more boost) I don't know whether to stay with my GT3076 or get a GT35, not much point getting everything done & re-tuned for an extra 20hp lol

Didn't realise you finally got another sticker, but remembered you saying when it did only then would it become full-on race car. Will be good to see this down at Barbs soon :ermm:

Yeah, the TO4Z was much more insane to drive than with the GT3076R. When it had the TO4Z Brad turned it around within 30meters of leaving the start line at AHG ;)

With the GT3076R we're currently pushing out 486rwhp, but that is fairly pushing the turbo/engine. For most street applications I wouldn't expect as much. Hoping that when we convert to E85 we can easily get 500rwhp but without having to work the engine as hard.

Hoping to get it to Barbs within the next month, as I just spoke to the cage fabricator and he said I could probably pick it up on Thursday :)

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...