Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys...

I am under the impression that R32 GTS-t runs a T28?

If so, would a T3 be a straight bolt on?

If so, how much boost can a T3 safely run?...

How much am I looking at for a T3?

How much for the conversion? Any other parts i need to plan for straight up?

Are there people on this forum that can help me do the conversion ourselves (safely and for a small fee ofcourse)...?

If none of the above can someone fill me in?

Thanks heaps...

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dont go looking to get a turbo to run a certain boost figure, look for a turbo that supports the sort of cfm/power you are after.

Simply running 19ps doesnt equate to a quick car, with the wrong turbo it could easily equate to high inlet temps and a cooked engine.

So perhaps a better way of going about it is deciding the power you are after, and then what turbo best suits that level using the lowest possible boost, whilst still providing good response.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-669327
Share on other sites

I run 14 psi and its a 12 second car. 19psi means nothing. Its the flow and effeciency that counts.

The turbo from a R33 is not a T28

but its niether a T3, yet its a T3 bolt pattern!

confusing? it gets better, Nissan bought about 5 different series of these turbochargers, from garrett, but they are all ceramic, and Ball bearing (even the GTR ones) and all the R33 ones can have on the cover, 45v1, 45v2, or 45v3 or 45v4, and I have ever heard of 45v5. What that means? Dunno...

So the best way to refer to these turbos (by the way they are the biggest factory nissan turbo you can get, and pretty damn good performance too) is "a RB25DET turbo"....theres simply no better way to avoid problems.

I went to get a turbo from someone once and found myself looking at a T28 from a S14. I wasnt impressed heheh:P

My car is a VL with a RB25det with two of these turbos on custom manifolds. Boost hits like a mac truck at 3800rpm and gives awesome power delievery. I run 1 bar boost (approx, its actually set atm on 1.05kg/cm) and there is no problems with the ceramic wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-669754
Share on other sites

R32 has a t3 turbo (fast spool up)

r33 has a t25 turbo (slow spool up)

s13, s14, and s15 has a t28 turbo (go up to 1.1 bar on a stock silvia.

You can use a t28 (uses a t3 flange). you have to get a differant outlet and mod the inlet, also add tap on the outlet to the intercooler. cheep upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-669761
Share on other sites

Hi stimps, well said, boost is irrelevant, air flow makes power, boost is a measurement of restriction to airflow. So more boost can mean that the engine is inefficient, not that it makes more power.

Only one correction on the Nissan turbos, Nissan owned the tooling and Garret made the turbos. But around R34 time Nissan tendered their turbo supply out for turbos to be made using the Nissan owned tooling. Hitachi won the tender, so the later turbos are actually made by Hitachi using Nissan tooling originally made for Nissan by Garrett.

Confusing, huh?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-669849
Share on other sites

Try here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30556

I bolted up a T3 to my 33's stock exhaust manifold etc. It's not quite a bolt-in affair, but it's about as close as you're going to get without buying a 'kit' for your car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-670200
Share on other sites

Yeah I know you said 32, but the only step-by-step I have is for my R33, so that's what you get :P

I thought the RB20 exhaust manifold was the same as the RB25 one? The turbo and space to the strut tower etc is no doubt different but similar rules should apply.

You should be able to run 12s with the stocker if it's well tuned. 4Doorz on here has a FMIC and home-tuned PFC on his 33 and he broke into the 12s, I image with less torque but also less weight with a 32 you could do something similar. That said, a bigger turbo will make it far more easy :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-670636
Share on other sites

Yeah... and the turbo's getting old too.... although i know it's still running perfect, it can't hurt to upgrade to a new one when i save some funds....

SO how much would i be looking at for a T04? then how much to install?...

who should i talk to? ADVAN?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33365-t3-turbo/#findComment-670679
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...