Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the reply. where exactly should I mount the whide band sensor? 36" from the exhaust lands on the down pipe.

I'm planning on buying a titanium down pipe. would it be a good idea to install the bung on the titanium down pipe?

Ti dump pipe? Why?

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small.

 

Ti dump pipe? Why? 

 

I just checked, as I have a Ti bung here. It isn't the correct thread though, too small. 

Down pipe, mate. I think they're called "front pipes" in planet Oz. As for dump pipes, I have my eyes in the Tomei products. moreover, I'm interested in the AEM non weld bung now that I know something like that exist.

  • 2 weeks later...

Can you guys help me figure out the location and degree of the bung on the following ARC pipe?

According to YAJ, it's a 3" Ti de-cat pipe but I don't know enough of the BNR32's exhaust anatomy to figure out if the bung will be in the correct location/position:

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210488kipo1

yasu32gtr2000-img600x450-1357210487cfpym

The pipe flanges are in different positions from each other but that is normal according to the many other pictures I've seen of that particular pipe.

The only concern I have is if the bung is facing 10degrees (or more) UP in order to meet the requirements of the BOSCH sensor I have.

10degrees.gif

Is the bung setup to allow my sensor to be at 10degrees?

  • 3 weeks later...

So, I decided to use the front pipes as the install point:

20131006_130737.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

That solved that problem but now I don't know why my AEM gauge does not activate. Is there an on/off switch...?

I found a solid ground and used the 12V from an 'accessory' wire that connects to the radio. I tried different wires, check with a multimeter but still couldn't get the gauge to turn on. I eventually hooked up my gauge to the car battery to see if the 12Vs from that would activate it...

%255BUNSET%255D.jpg%255BUNSET%255D.jpg

Is my gauge broken?

So, I finally got my AEM installed. Turns out that the solder that I had to splice the gauge directly into the corresponding wires. I also had to shave the wires down a little more because the stock solder tips were too thick for proper connection.

BIG thanks for negativecamber so helping me figure it out.

My gauge is working now but what sort of numbers should I be looking for? I went driving for about 15 minutes and the gaue went all over the place: 13.5 to 16.0 (for appx 3-4 seconds)...

(BTW, I've been suspecting that my Mine's VX-ROM needs another tune)

Went all over the place when at a constant RPM/load? Or just while driving normally (e.g fluctuating load and revs?)

At cruise it will fluctuate a bit but should be fairly constant, This also depends on what computer is in the car

If just driving around normally the gauge will jump around. If you put your foot down you should see the gauge start dropping, usually till it hits about 11-12:1 if it is a tuned computer, if its stock ECU then this number could be lower

If you are getting above 12:1 on full load at high RPM then it may be a bit to lean and need a retune

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...